The Spring 22 Haute Couture season just got a lot more interesting. This morning it was announced that Colombian-born designer Haider Ackermann would be the next creative force to take over the Jean Paul Gaultier Couture ateliers, gearing up to present his vision for the iconically Parisian design house in January. Ackermann follows in the footsteps of Chitose Abe of sacai and Glenn Martens of Y/Project and Diesel who presented well thought our interpretations of Gaultier’s many codes. Of course, we couldn’t not mention the disastrous efforts made by Balmain’s Olivier Rouestening whose Fall 22 Couture collection presented in July was torn apart for its poor construction and reductive references.
Ackermann has long been an industry favourite thanks to his razor-sharp cuts, asymmetrical silhouettes, and penchants for romance that have had many linking him to the work of Yves Saint Laurent. Previously creative director of Berluti for three seasons and departed in 2018. His tenure was defined by his languid, feminine silhouettes that quickly became a favourite for the likes of Timothée Chalamaet and Tilda Swinton. Since 2021 Ackermann has been the creative consultant to Belgian brand Maison Ullens bringing his distinct flair for sensitive theatrics to the minimalist brand. A true man of versatility, the news of his guest appointment at Gaultier follows the news that Ackermann will be collaborating with FILA on a capsule collection to be debuted in Manchester come November. Does this mean we’ll see trainers dominate his couture collection? Only time will tell.