Trailblazing talents are the focus of 'Heritage', the first issue from the brand new London-based publication all/WITHIN. Conceived in May 2022 by Shammi Popat, whose professional background has seen them move from a degree in International Fashion Business to a career in e-commerce with a focus on circular initiatives, Popat wanted to fill a void in fashion print. Launching with three cover designs featuring fashion by Christopher Raeburn, all/WITHIN includes contributions from radical designers and collectives who moonlight as environmental and societal change-makers, alongside photography and illustrations by Peter Mitchell, Dahren Davey, Josune Dega and more.
Popat explains that 'the forefront of my motivation to bring this publication alive was to just showcase an accurate representation of marginalised communities within the creative space. Being first generation in this country, with an Asian/African background, I have always been a victim of racial abuse, and it became so normalised when I was a kid, I would always laugh it off and try and deflect away from my heritage so I could "fit in" with the white kids at school. After graduating from university last year, I applied for loads of roles within the fashion industry, and felt undermined and looked down upon in interviews, felt at times like I had my skin stripped off me. This inspired me to try and push against the odds, and provide a space for many other brown boys and marginalised kids to push creativity out there and never forget your HERITAGE.'
all/WITHIN challenges the reader to think about the systems in which fashion operates. Its content is split across the themes of ‘This is England’, ‘F*ck off back to your own country’ and ‘Climate change is more real than your wife’s orgasm’. Zig-zagging across England, breaking down borders, the first section attempts to re-frame the post-Brexit debate of who, and what, is England today? Documentary photographs of the Northwest of England by Rob Bremner feature alongside similarly Thatcher-era images by Peter Mitchell, whilst an editorial with the sportswear brand Donkwear is set in current day Bolton. And what would England be without the boozer? Adam Jones provides a think-piece on the conception of the British pub.
'I’ve always loved contrast within art and wanted to contrast everything from 1970s Leeds, to current day Marrakech, to Maharashtra in India & all the way to St Catherine in Jamaica and that’s what all/WITHIN issue/001 is about, an extension of all of us', Popat explains of the title's curation, with the second chapter of the magazine profiling India-based fashion collective Margn and Indian artisans.
The magazine's final section, ‘Climate change is more real than your wife’s orgasm’, addresses two fashion pioneers unafraid to provoke an industry shouldering huge responsibility for society's impact on climate change. The cover feature on Raeburn, photographed by Ollie Trenchard, traces the roots of modern sustainable design in the UK back to the brand's roots in 2001. Bookended by Bethany Williams, who established their brand in 2017, readers will discover how fashion can impact positive change, and be handed back to the people.
all/WITHIN issue/001 will be released to the world on Friday 19 August at the Raeburn space in Hackney, and will be available for sale at Raeburn, Hit+Run, Village Books and Good News Soho.
Creative director: @shammipopat
Photographer assistants: @ivscampbell @_lofiarts
Assistant stylist: @jacobrlevine
Models: @karanjee at @models1 & @jasmiinejackson at @presentmodelmanagement