The house of Maison Margiela, designed by John Galliano, have revealed a genderless capsule of wardrobe staples and formalwear, the Icons Collection. Trench coats, pin-striped suits and overcoats are not as they seem. These familiar items are remade through the Margiela lens; the memory of a garment made for a new time - as captured in a film by Olivier Dahan.
The house's staple red thread details, five-hole buttons embroidered with the letter M and exposed seams, together with shirts made from clothing linings and contrast lapels break essential garments down to their core in the new capsule which highlights the quintessential components to Galliano's Maison Margiela, illustrated since he took to the helm in 2014. Heritage wools, herringbone, cavalry twills, cottons and tattersall cloth also play on the notions of classic menswear and class, together with denim, knitwear, cashmere and silk, placing humble materials in tandem with richer ones - an 'inverted snobbery' they explored in this summer's Artisanal collection.
On each Maison Margiela clothing label, the wearer will find a series of numbers referencing the different elements of the house. The Icons Collection builds on lines 4 and 14, which refer to a wardrobe for women and a wardrobe for men, here presented as one genderless collection. Expect to see these reintroduced season after season, from the house's Artisanal collection trickling down to ready-to-wear.
To celebrate, Maison Margiela will be staging temporary spaces in stores in the Paris, London and Tokyo flagships to immerse the devoted clientele in the new collection.