Having teased their S/S 22 collection with the second issue of their digital publication SEE-THROUGH last month, the fashion label Marques'Almeida returned to their hometown in Porto to host a runway show on Thursday evening. Once again, they used the opportunity to spotlight the M'A community by sharing their platform with local creatives.
Continuing to focus on M'A's DNA, after launching the archival initiative RE'MADE in June 2020, the S/S 22 collection features the quirky denim fans of the brand have loved since 2011. An indigo denim skirt hangs asymmetrically, hems frayed, whilst as a white pair of jeans feature slits which tie up the front of the legs with black ribbons. Vibrant pinks, oranges and purples run throughout, with tie-dye hoodies and ribbed jersey two-pieces introducing loungewear with an M'A twist.
Working in a more conscious way has become central to the brand's practice, and they say they've eliminated raw material waste as they continue to upcycle deadstock fabrics from previous collections via RE'MADE. 'No petroleum-based fibres are used in the collection unless items are recycled. Denim is made with recycled, certified organic cotton and all the washes are produced with responsible water usage. All sustainable raw materials have the correct certification and dyeing is produced using natural waste techniques', the brand explained in a statement.
Having worked closely with Portugese factories since launching their brand, whom they celebrate in SEE THROUGH, designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida decided to share their platform with local fashion designers and artists this season. With the help of Marta’s younger sister, Sofia (M’A Brand Producer), Marques'Almeida selected 6 talents to join them at the show which took place inside a derelict 19th century building in the creative hub of Campanha.
‘For S/S 22 we come back to our roots in Porto, to new friends and to the mentors who saw us off over 10 years ago. It was the right time to look at how M’A can start the path into its future by supporting, empowering, and holding hands with the new generation', they explained.
MEET THE ARTISTS AND DESIGNERS:
- MARCELO ALMISCARADO is a fashion designer currently based in Porto, and their artistic fashion pieces subvert religious and traditional codes. He was the winner of the Bloom competition (Portugal’s Fashion Platform for young creatives) and since 2020 he has been presenting his own collections with them. His aesthetic combines traditional and even religious codes that are subverted by pop and industrial references, to understand its place among these antagonistic environments.
- REBECA LETRAS are a queer non-binary multidisciplinary artist working in the fields of ceramic, performance, experimental education, sculpture, drawing and design. Rebeca are now based at PEDREIRA (an artist-run residency and safe space/studio).
- TILO. Created by Patrícia Brito in 2019, TILO is a cross-disciplinary project using both the visual arts and design, exploring sustainability issues in the textile industry and working exclusively with deadstock materials, using embroidery and patchwork as visible mending techniques.
- MANA.TERRA is a textile creation and research project created by Susana Santos, visual artist and designer from Porto. It functions as a sustainable laboratory for experimenting with bags and other small accessories. Her work is inspired by craft techniques and is guided by an irrevocable sense of community.
- NANI CAMPOS is an independent jewellery and fashion designer living and working between Porto and Berlin. NANI’s process starts with the sourcing of her materials, mostly from deadstock fabrics, second-hand stores and waste deposits, and the product development follows. She designs and produces one-off units of jewellery and clothes.
- ARIEV: is a brand created by José Vieira, which he started at the end of his training at the Escola de Moda do Porto. The designer was an intern at the Portuguese brand Hugo Costa, where he had the opportunity to monitor the development of the collection and present it at Paris Fashion Week in 2018. In that same year, he began presenting on the Bloom platform linked to the Portugal Fashion program, and later joined the first edition of the FARFETCH X MODATEX programme, where he later began as a stylist. The ARIEIV brand focuses on the inclusion of genders, ethnicities, and cultures.