Against billowing clouds of smoking contained inside a glass box and illuminated by blue lighting reminiscent of a Dutch masters painting, the Dior Men's A/W 20 collection is captured by Steven Meisel. Debuting in Paris back in January, artistic director Kim Jones presented a tribute to the visionary late stylist and accessories designer Judy Blame. Having made a name for himself in London during the 1970s and 1980s via appropriating everyday objects such as safety pins and padlocks into treasured trinkets, Blame was an influential force in the fashion industry. Working as a stylist as part of the Buffalo collective, his idiosyncratic approach and aesthetic impacted publications such as i-D, Blitz Magazine and The Face whilst in their infancy, along with designers including Gareth Pugh, Rei Kawakubo and Jones, with whom he created jewellery for the Louis Vuitton Men's A/W 15 show. Now well into his tenure at Dior Men's, Jones took Blame's DIY, mix and match trinkets into the realm of couture.
As seen in the campaign, chains and coins embossed with Blame's profile hang on silver rings from the breast pockets of suits. The Dior oblique pattern is remade in tiny pearls- a Blame staple- a paisley print scarf hangs against a dangling necklace and another set of trinkets forms a pocket chain. The creations, brought together by jewellery designer Yoon Ahn, are elevated further by the couture cuts of suiting and wool coats and rich taffeta bomber jackets. Styled by Melanie Ward, all looks are finished off with opera gloves. Some outfits are completed with berets by Stephen Jones, a contemporary of Blame's on the London New Romantic's scene in the late seventies, and nod nicely to the hats Blame frequently wore and created.
Photographed and captured in a short film by Steven Meisel, who has shot all the campaigns for Dior since Jones' S/S 19 debut, the A/W 20 campaign is a fitting final chapter in a poetic tribute to the late creative marvel.