The Cult of Creative Directors Is As Strong As Ever: Your Paris S/S 23 Menswear Guide

by Joshua Graham on 21 June 2022

It’s the pull power of superstar creative directors that makes the Paris menswear collections an unmissable event.

It’s the pull power of superstar creative directors that makes the Paris menswear collections an unmissable event.

When it comes to Paris Fashion Week, there is never a shortage of talents old and new vying for the spotlight. While it's the storied houses that solidify the City of Light’s status as the fashion capital of the world, this menswear season continues the lasting tradition of hosting designers from around the globe. Among the city’s emerging names to know: LVMH-prize finalist Hed Mayner should be at the top of your list thanks to his oversized proportions influenced by orthodox Jewish tailoring, along with Marine Serre, who will be making her highly-anticipated menswear debut. They’ll be joined by Kiko Kostadinov who returns to Paris after presenting his last collection as a video from Mexico City. He joins a growing list of London-based designers who’ve crossed the channel alongside Bianca Saunders and Craig Green - both of whom are set to present for the second time in Paris.

Kiko Kostadinov A/W 22 menswear

While emerging talents also bring innovation and excitement, what sets the city apart from its fashion capital contenders are its historic houses. JW Anderson for Loewe, Kim Jones for Dior, and Hedi Slimane's return to the runway with Celine are just some examples of creative directors proving they're just as big as the brands they work for. Givenchy's head honcho Matthew Williams has made a name for himself thanks to his endeavours with 1017 ALYX 9SM and fruitful collaborations with Nike. And while rumours swirl of Martine Rose taking up the helm of Louis Vuitton menswear, this season will be taken care of by Abloh’s design team following the visionary’s passing earlier this year. If you don't know where to start, here's a rundown of the big-ticket shows that are bound to make headlines this week.

Dior Men's

Whatever your opinion on Kim Jones, there is no denying the fashion tour de force is an industry favourite. The creative polymath expertly balances his time as artistic director of both Fendi womenswear, Fendi couture and Dior Men's. His collaborative approach has seen him work with Donatella Versace for that infamous Fendace collection, as well as a string of artistic endeavours at Dior working across mediums with Hajime Sorayama, Daniel Armasham, and Stüssy. For his spring collection, presented in Venice Beach last month, he enlisted LA-based knitwear artist ERL as a guest designer. With his upcoming summer show, only one question remains. Who will he be partnering with this time?

Dior Men's spring 2023


Calling Nigo streetwear royalty would be an understatement. The Japanese designer has been a figurehead for the culture since he first introduced the world to A Bathing Ape in 1993. Since then, it's been global domination for the Bunka alum who's been a favourite collaborator of Pharrel Williams, with the two starting equally covetable brands Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream. Nigo's pull-power with hip-hop heavy-hitters brought the likes of Kanye West, A$SP Rocky and, of course, Williams front row for his KENZO debut in January. Come Sunday, we expect nothing less than another highly researched tribute to Takada's legacy.

KENZO A/W 22 campaign


Another balancing act mastermind, JW Anderson is following up on his Rembrandt-inspired menswear collection in Milan last week with what's sure to be another surrealist dream at Loewe. It was the Northern Irish designer's provocative menswear that launched him to global stardom and caught the attention of LVMH execs, who tasked him to breathe new life into the Spanish brand in 2013. Since then, his devotion to craft has manifested in showstopping conceptual menswear, we’re sure his Saturday show is bound to follow suit.

Loewe A/W 22 menswear


The last year has seen Glenn Martens' stardom rise to meteoric levels. Following his appointment at Diesel, the Belgian designer brought the denim brand straight to the forefront of the sartorial zeitgeist with his clever take on Y2K introducing Diesel to an entirely new generation. His talents as a couturier were also showcased in a critically acclaimed collection as the guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier couture. Paying homage to the OG l'enfant terrible of Parisian fashion, he presented rave-ready trompe l'oeil tops paired with his signature deconstructed tailoring for his A/W 22 menswear offerings. No matter what he has up his sleeves, it's sure to be done with intrigue.

Y/Project x Jean Paul Gaultier


The S/S 23 menswear shows marks the return of the always disruptive Hedi Slimane, who slammed the traditional fashion week schedule in 2020 calling it 'obsolete' in an interview with Le Monde. Yet regardless of his own thoughts, It's this very penchant for rock'n'roll and skinny jeans (no matter how dramatic the eye rolls are) that are sure to have his pin-thin acolytes flocking. Considering he’s been given the worthy position of closing Paris Fashion Week, we know they’ll flock, in their hundreds most likely.

Celine A/W 22, Boy Doll



Y/ Project A/W 22

Creative Director: Glenn Martens
Image Gallery

Catwalk Imagery: Kiko Kostadinov A/W 22 Menswear

21 January 2022
Designer: Kiko Kostadinov
Back to top