The New Menswear Masters: What To Look Forward To Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 23

by Joshua Graham on 17 January 2023

With the loss of some of fashion's biggest names last year including Issey Miyake, Thierry Mugler, and Vivienne Westwood, this season lets put the spotlight on the burgeoning talents ready to take up the mantle.

With the loss of some of fashion's biggest names last year including Issey Miyake, Thierry Mugler, and Vivienne Westwood, this season lets put the spotlight on the burgeoning talents ready to take up the mantle.

Last year saw the devastating losses of some of fashion’s most influential talents including Issey Miyake, Thierry Mugler, and of course dame Vivienne Westwood. Calling the City of Light home throughout their decades-long careers, these sartorial titans propelled fashion to new heights with their distinct visions that would inspire generations to come. While their absence is sure to leave a hole in the hearts (and wardrobes) of fashion aficionados worldwide, in our mourning, it's vital we stay optimistic about the future ahead. That’s why this season, I implore you to look beyond the multi-billion dollar brands that are oh too familiar in favour of the emerging talents that continue to make Paris the fashion capital of the world. After all, Miyake, Mugler and Westwood were all newbies when they first landed on the city’s cobblestone streets.

As far as the fashion capitals are concerned, being the oldest we never have to worry about a lack of prestige brands on the Paris Fashion Week schedule. For the A/W 23 menswear season, Loewe, Rick Owens and Walter Van Beirendonck are sure to flood Instagram and TikTok with their distinct aesthetics and big budget presentations. After years of opting for lookbooks and fashion films, Maison Margiela’s creative director John Galliano will be closing the season in what's sure to be a theatrical spectacle no matter the medium. While these established brands are sure to continue leading the charge, it’s about time we start thinking about who's going to join them in influencing the ever-changing scope of fashion. From the master tailors of tomorrow, to the streetwear mavericks shaping our sartorial choices, here are the names to know this season.

Maison Margiela S/S 22


Since winning LVMH's coveted Karl Lagerfeld prize in 2019, Israeli-designer Hed Mayner has quickly become a favourite within menswear circles. Not fixed on trend cycles, Mayner's distinct design ethos presents a romantic take on tailoring inspired, in part, by the sartorial choices of the orthodox Jewish community he grew up around. When he presents his latest collection on Wednesday, we're sure to see his signature oversized, boxy silhouettes with strong shoulders cut from fluid fabrics to satiate our desire for timeless tailoring.

Hed Mayner S/S 23


Another LVMH Prize alumni, KidSuper — founded by Colm Dillane — won the Karl Lagerfeld prize in 2021. Originally a filmmaker, the New York City-based designer has garnered a number of famous fans like Jack Harlow and Mac Miller with his bold streetwear. While rumous are still abuzz on who will replace Virgil Abloh as creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear, the maison shocked the industry when it announced that KidSuper would be co-desiging the brand's menswear collection on Thursday. Could this be a soft-launch to something bigger or just another capsule collaboration?

Louis Vuitton S/S 23


Speaking of the Louis Vuitton rumour mill, there are few designers who could helm the responsibility of a big brand like that. While Grace Wales Bonner and Martine Rose (my top pick) have been the names on everyone's lips, Casablanca founder Charaf Tajer could easily be thrown into the mix. After all, since the brand was established in 2018 it's seen a meteroic rise thanks to it's distinct ease inspired by the resortwear of the French Riviera, and A-list clientle including Drake and Nicholas Cage. The latter even went on to star in the brand's A/W 22 campaign, signaling an exciting new era.

Casablanca S/S 23


Right after Casablanca, Bode will be making its runway return in Paris on Saturday after a three-year hiatus. Founded by Emily Bode, the New Yorker has become a menswear favourite with her signature workwear silhouettes. Crafted from upcycled textiles sourced from around the world, the brand's one-of-a-kind garments are quickly becoming sartorial holy grails fetching a pretty-penny on sites like Grailed. With her fashion week presence sorely missed (the brand's last runway show was held in 2020), we can't wait to see how the brand has evolved.

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