What SHOWstudio Are Looking Forward To: LFW A/W 20

by SHOWstudio on 13 February 2020

From New York to London: the SHOWstudio team give their insider picks of what to watch out for at London Fashion Week.

From New York to London: the SHOWstudio team give their insider picks of what to watch out for at London Fashion Week.

Sarah Kathryn Cleaver, editorial associate

'I love the personal, slightly obsessive and often trashy references of Christopher Kane shows, and the way the sexy is paired with the nerdy to create hyper cerebral perversions. His seasons play out like an encyclopaedia of exquisite kinks, and I’m always fascinated to see what will be on the next page. The launch of his More Joy vibrator just in time for Valentines Day is the perfect trailer for upcoming attractions.'

Calum Knight, content editor

'After seeing Eftychia Karamolegkou’s collection in the CSM 2017 MA Graduate show, and working with her on the launch of the brand for MACHINE-A’s 2018 Graduate Project, I've been fascinated with her take on femininity and strength. Her disdain for the excess of the industry has seen her become a beacon of exacting and unadulterated design for critics and customers alike, with concise collections of impeccably edited elegance. In her second NewGen-supported presentation, expect to see more corporate suiting given an honest yet totally desirable update, through seductive masculine sartorial codes and crisp, clean fabric choices. In other words, a perfect tonic for the usual frivolity of fashion week.'

Sophie Walsh, editorial intern

'I'm going to have to go with Central Saint Martins on this one. The sheer blood, sweat and tears behind these collections are truly admirable and the atmosphere is nothing but celebratory. The culmination of hard work, creative innovation and a collaborative ethos, this show is the very best place to scout rising talent. I am genuinely excited to see the fruits of these young designers' labours.'

The Central Saint Martins annual White Show at the British Fashion Awards 2019.

Hetty Mahlich, editorial assistant

'The Central Saint Martins graduate show gets its trumpet blown a lot, but increasingly it's the University of Westminster BA show which deserves the fanfare for me. Graduate shows give the industry the kick from behind it needs, and I’m looking forward to seeing new talent, ideas, and an inkling of what the future holds.'

Polly Henderson, one of the designers showing at the Westminster presentation.

Maisie Bowker, editorial intern

'I find myself wondering how Molly Goddard is going to top her last show. That hot pink tulle teamed with a creamy cardigan all tied by with a black bow? Hello! I am stressing about what new thing she can bring to the table, how versatile can she prove tulle to be? Anyway, I am certain that I love her and want to spend my days in her fluffy A-line masterpiece.'

Stephanie Irwin, social media manager

'At London Fashion Week, I consistently look forward to JW Anderson. As said by the wonderful Tom Rasmussen (@tomglitter) in our Best in Show series, he really makes you want things that you initially thought of as undesirable. JW is the king of layers, billowing silhouettes and cut-outs, and I can't wait to see how he interprets this for A/W 20.'

Bella Gladman, editorial associate

'Even though I wear monochrome menswear 98% of the time, Yuhan Wang's pastel designs have captured my heart. They're dreamy and nostalgic for an imaginary time and, despite being all frills and furbelows, still feel graceful and grown-up. This will be her first season stepping out from the Fashion East umbrella: I'm so looking forward to seeing where she takes her clothing next.'

Georgina Evans, fashion editor

'As disheartened as I am that two of my absolute favourites, Supriya Lele and ASAI, are missing from the schedule this season, I am genuinely drunk with excitement at the thought of Simone Rocha's show. Her tropes of femininity–pearls, lace, embroidery–are given an edge with narrative, craftmanship and accessory. Each show envelops you into her world, just as you wish to be enveloped in her bustling skirts and sleeves. It's so powerfully feminine, I lost my sh*t (and all professionalism) at the showroom last season. I'm honestly intoxicated at the thought of seeing it all again.'

Christina Kapourtzoudi, editorial intern

'I am intrigued to see what Kiko Kostadinov's A/W 20 womenswear collection is going to be. If Laura and Deanna Fanning follow the same minimalistic path Kiko himself did with his menswear collection, I won't be surprised but I will definitely be disappointed. I would love to see more 'couture' tailoring in the design.' 

Violet Conroy, migration assistant

'The ways in which Charlotte Knowles and her partner Alexandre Arsenault bind, wrap and tie up the female form with their garments lends a new, unusually rigorous reading of the feminine silhouette. I wonder how the duo will contour the body this season? These are women sheathed, dressed in what the pair call ‘militarized corsetry.’ Don’t mistake their love of lingerie as regressive; underwear is a necessity, so why not embrace the kind that’s both sexy and delicate, and more importantly, multipurpose? Combining underwear and outerwear is both chic and economical.'

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