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SHOWtime: London S/S 23 Womenswear

published on 26 September 2022

What happened when SHOWstudio invited a selection of panellists to an abrasively-honest debate-style panel?

In a discussion moderated by SHOWstudio’s fashion critic M-C Hill, panellists Bailey Anderes, Rian Phin, Arianna Aviram and Angel Nemov touch on a selection of themes rooted in the London S/S 23 womenswear season. From streetwear as the precursor for the mainstream success of conceptual brands to whether or not the late Queen Elizabeth II's death warranted cancellations and show reshuffles, watch the varying debates below.

What happened when SHOWstudio invited a selection of panellists to an abrasively-honest debate-style panel?

'Streetwear’s popularity paved the way for conceptual designers’ mainstream success.' - Rian Phin

Kicking off episode two of fashion’s fieriest debate show Rian Phin argues that the industries co-opting of streetwear has led to the popularisation of conceptual design. Arianna Aviram is quick to point out how hip-hop’s penchants for name-dropping brands opened the gateway for burgeoning fashion fans to whet their appetites for the worlds of Hood by Air, Rick Owens, and Raf Simons. Bailey Anderes questions Phin’s argument asking if it’s ‘a necessary evil’ as streetwear did open up the world of high fashion to an entirely new generation.

'Is it okay for designers to borrow ideas and execute them in a similar way?' - Arianna Aviram

Taking it back to 2003, Arianna Aviram sets the scene with the year’s fascination for bondage straps citing Junya Watanabe's S/S 03 collection as the most recognised example. Twenty years later, Aviram puts her Diet Prada hat on and is quick to compare Simone Rocha’s S/S 23 to that iconic show. Angel Nemov defends Rocha by delving into how her designs challenge gender norms with the introduction of menswear; something Watanabe didn’t do two decades prior. Moderator M-C Hill can’t help but chime in stating brands will put consumers often forget their fashion history, allowing for the blatant rip-offs of products perceived as 'cash-cows'.

'Did the late Queen Elizabeth II's death warrant all the fuss at fashion week?' - Bailey Anderes

Coming from a very American perspective, fashion student Bailey Anderes argues that Queen Elizabeth II’s death should not have been the big deal that London Fashion Week made it out to be. He points out how the royal family benefits from a problematic history of colonisation. London resident Angel Nemov points out how the city was in chaos after the news broke and felt as though emerging brands were pressured to cancel their presentations once Burberry and Raf Simons did. Rian Phin chimes in that 'can't expect this exploitative industry' to speak up against topics like the Queen's colonial history.

'As emerging designers expand their brands, they dilute what makes them special to begin with.' - Angel Nemov

SHOWstudio's very own content editor Angel Nemov gets down and dirty as he joins our debaters with his argument that London's emerging talent is diluting their brands with commercial ventures. Citing Nensi Dojaka as a prime example of this, Nemov isn't convinced her introduction of denim is anything more than a cash grab. Arianna Aviram agrees that there is often a disconnect when emerging brands suddenly shift focus to introduce new products too quickly. Bailey Anderes refutes the panellists by pointing out that they bottom line for any brand is to widen the scope of potential consumers.

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