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Day 1: Alexander Fury

published on 1 July 2013

For day one of his Tumblr Takeover, Alexander Fury posted the greatest hits from the houses of Versace, Schiaparelli, Lacroix, Dior and Giambattista Valli, alongside some uploaded from 'the taffeta lined trenches', answering viewer questions along the way.

For day one of his Tumblr Takeover, Alexander Fury posted the greatest hits from the houses of Versace, Schiaparelli, Lacroix, Dior and Giambattista Valli, alongside some uploaded from 'the taffeta lined trenches', answering viewer questions along the way.

Elizabeth Hurley in Atelier Versace, 1996
The programme sketch of Naomi’s opening number (opening in every sense of the word) from Atelier Versace last night
Naomi Campbell closing Versace. And opening couture week. It’s ON.
No prizes for guessing the first show of the day. Lacroix for Schiaparelli. Officially the most excited I have ever been in my entire life.
Naomi Campbell in Gianni Versace’s final Atelier Versace collection, 1997
Christian Lacroix’s homage to Elsa Schiaparelli. Joyous.
More from Lacroix for Schiaparelli. Collection revolving in a mirrored carousel. Pom-pom mink hats, emphatic shoulders, glorious colours. Lesage embroideries.
Lacroix’s reinterpretation of Perugia’s monkey-fur shoes for Schiaparelli. These are goat.
Naomi Campbell in Gianni Versace’s final Atelier Versace collection, 1997
Madonna in Atelier Versace PVC gown, 1995
Elsa Schiaparelli by Horst, 1937
Schiaparelli’s lobster dress, 1937
A Schiaparelli hat, by Horst
A winged saucer-hat at Lacroix’s own-label couture debut in 1987.
Sketch and reality: a coat from Lacroix’s first own-label couture collection for winter 1987
Sketch and reality: a coat from Lacroix’s first own-label couture collection for winter 1987
A bustle-back dress by Elsa Schiaparelli
Lacroix’s 1987 bustle: a duchesse satin pouf dress with an apron of chartreuse tied in the back with a baby-pink bow.
A sketch by Christian Berard, from Schiaparelli’s 1938 “Astrological” collection
La Bar - the suit that made the world look new. Dior is next.
La Bar by Willy Maywald, 1947
En route to Raf Simons latest couture for Dior
Christian Dior in his couture maison, by Henri Cartier-Bresson
Grey silk ottoman dress with cinched waist and structured skirt, by Dior
Barbara Goalen in Dior
Giant projections of photographs shot live backstage at Dior. These are Paolo Roversi.
Theme of Dior was flags - and the clients. Dressing different nationalities in Dior. This is Europe, again by Demarchelier.
Tweed day dress with buttoned sleeves and multiple peplums. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier.
Dior’s blue cashmere coat, against American bandbox stripes. Quite Nancy Reagan, non?
Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Trapeze’ for Dior, 1958
The corolla of a rose - the point where the stem meets the petals. Dior dubbed the New Look his ‘Corolle’ line, because the skirts spread like flowers from a handspan waist.
John Galliano’s globe-trotting chic in his first couture collection for Dior, spring 1997
Drama in Dior grey, from Gianfranco Ferre’s years at Dior
The Edwardian Raj Princess Chez Dior. Galliano’s Mata Hari-inspired winter 1997 couture collection
Galliano for Dior ‘Supersize Sisi’ couture from winter 2004. By Demarchelier.
John Galliano for Christian Dior haute couture autumn/winter 1998.
Kate in Maharajah jewellery, from the winter 1999 Matrix Dior couture show
Scheherezade embroidery from the Marchesa Casati-inspired spring 1998 Dior couture show, staged at the Opera Garnier in Paris
Linda Evangelista disembarking from the ‘Diorient Express’ for Galliano’s winter 1998 Dior 'Pocahontas’ haute couture collection
Croquis are sketches created by fashion houses - in olden days, they used to be sent to clients alongside swatches of fabric, as an aide memoire for them to select their ensembles. Today they’re pretty pictures the press can use to illustrate things. Here’s one from Bill Gaytten’s final couture collection for Dior, for spring/sumer 2012
Kate Moss in Giambattista Valli for Emanuel Ungaro haute couture, winter 2000
Giambattista Valli haute couture, spring/summer 2013
Madame Alexander Fury in the house for Giambattista Valli.
Couture crotch I at Giambattista Valli
Couture Crotch II and III (the audience) at Giambattista Valli.
Princess Lee Radziwill. A Val Gal.
Lace, grace, a slow pace at Giambattista Valli. Ten looks in and no trousers.
Flower embroideries at Giambattista Valli. From the Sevres section, FYI
Princess Lee Radziwill covers T magazine
Giambattista Valli haute couture, autumn/winter 2012
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