'To find a way not to ignore the male form, but to enhance it.' That was Nick Knight's stated aim with Boned, an editorial shoot with Alister Mackie for AnOther Man magazine that first examined and then challenged the traditional view of both male underwear and its photographic representation.
Mackie invited womenswear designers - Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab and Christopher Kane amongst them - to create their own version of mens' underwear, combining the peekaboo lace, strict corsetry and seductive frills more usually applied to female underpinnings. The result? Not underwear per se, but more lingerie for men. Drawing on the studio photography of Horst P. Horst and Robert Mapplethorpe - the latter obsessed with the male form divine and the former famed for his seminal Mainbocher Corset - Knight twisted the aesthetic of those highly-posed, black-and-white studio shots into colour, the flushed, fleshy pastel shades of the lingerie drawer.
A modern response to the representation of the male form, the entire shoot was broadcast live - another example of the unseen, seen. The editorial shoot is featured here alongside a fashion film edited by Ruth Hogben, and an essay by curator and fashion historian Shaun Cole addressing the undressing of the male.