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Alice Hawkins, Lily Donaldson, Dasha Zhukova, Luci Schroder, Aimee Mullins, Liberty Ross, Daphne Guinness, Ruth Hogben, Rei Nadal, Poppy de Villeneuve, Marie Schuller, Ellie Grace Cumming, Asia Argento, Anna Trevelyan, Polly Borland, Susannah Frankel, Stephanie LaCava, Erica Schreiner, Emma Forrest, Valerie Steele, Caryn Franklin, Lou Stoppard, Harriet Walker, Becky Conekin, Alison Bancroft, Emer O'Toole, Roberta McGrath, Erika Eiffel, Katharine K. Zarrella, Victoria Turk and Tom Guinness

Fashion Fetish

Alongside the 2012 SHOWstudio Shop exhibition 'Selling Sex', SHOWstudio launches 'Fashion Fetish,' a series of fashion films, performances, multi-media pieces and accompanying essays by women in fashion - including Ruth Hogben, Daphne Guinness, Liberty Ross, Aimee Mullins, Asia Argento and Dasha Zhukova - that comment on the contentious and provocative fusion of fashion with fetish.

More in this project

  • Overview
  • Essay: Dolls
  • Alice Hawkins
  • Essay: Furries
  • Lily Donaldson
  • Essay: Fairytales
  • Dasha Zhukova
  • Essay: Objectum Sexuality
  • Luci Schroder
  • Essay: Head Shaving
  • Ellie Grace Cumming
  • Essay: Transfiguration
  • Aimee Mullins
  • Essay: Models
  • Erica Schreiner
  • Essay: Mesh
  • Liberty Ross
  • Essay: Bloggers
  • Anna Trevelyan
  • Essay: Eyes
  • Daphne Guinness
  • Essay: Age
  • Marie Schuller
  • Original Script
  • Asia Argento
  • Essay: Latex
  • Poppy De Villeneuve
  • Essay: Peep Show
  • Rei Nadal
  • Essay: Red Lips
  • Ruth Hogben

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  • Essay: Dolls
    Victoria Turk explores modern attitudes towards female sexual expression and image in this thought-provoking response to Alice Hawkins' film
  • Alice Hawkins
    Photographer Alice Hawkins revisits her past as a Soho shop girl in this cheeky new film created with her favourite customer Rory
  • Essay: Furries
    Writer and cultural critic Alison Bancroft responds to Lily Donaldson's 'Fashion Fetish' film with an essay on fetish, furries and trouble
  • Lily Donaldson
    Model Lily Donaldson channels seedy amateur erotic footage in an amusing film inspired by animal fetish group the 'furries'
  • Essay: Fairytales
    Writer Katharine Zarrella dissects the transformative power of clothing in 'Fairytales from the Closet', a response to Dasha Zhukova's film
  • Dasha Zhukova
    Chloë Sevigny and Derek Blasberg star in Dasha Zhukova's 'Fashion Fetish' film
  • Essay: Objectum Sexuality
    Erika Eiffel, Objectum Sexuality activist and partner of the Eiffel Tower, draws on Luci Schroder's film to explain human-object love
  • Luci Schroder
    The up-and-coming director explores irrational love in her witty take on Fashion Fetish.
  • Essay: Head Shaving
    Writer and academic Emer O'Toole draws on her own hair history to unpick Ellie Grace Cumming's 'Fashion Fetish' film
  • Ellie Grace Cumming
    Stylist Ellie Grace Cumming teams with Sarah Piantadosi to explore trichophilia in a unique 'Fashion Fetish' film
  • Essay: Transfiguration
    Aimee Mullins provides an essay to go alongside her own film, explaining that her concept came from an objection to popular 'pretty' imagery
  • Aimee Mullins
    Actress, athlete and model Aimee Mullins takes inspiration from the Jackie 60 fetish troupe 'The House of Domination' in her unique film
  • Essay: Models
    Fashion historian Becky Conekin draws on her research into models to dissect the messages in Erica Schreiner's 'Fashion Fetish' film
  • Erica Schreiner
    Artist and filmmaker Erica Schreiner directs, edits and stars in an ethereal 'Fashion Fetish' film
  • Essay: Mesh
    Academic and writer Roberta McGrath draws on her expertise in visual representation to unpick Liberty Ross and Polly Borland's dark film
  • Liberty Ross
    Liberty Ross collaborates with Polly Borland to explore the interplay between primitive sexual fetishism and childlike play in 'Dollywood'
  • Essay: Bloggers
    Harriet Walker gets to grips with the craze for online self-objectification, in response to Anna Trevelyan's blogger-inspired film
  • Anna Trevelyan
    Stylist Anna Trevelyan and filmmaker Grace Ladoja take inspiration from the digital generation to create a 'Fashion Fetish' film short
  • Essay: Eyes
    Valerie Steele - 'the Freud of fashion', to quote Suzy Menkes - explores Daphne Guinness' fetish for adorned eyes
  • Daphne Guinness
    Daphne Guinness offers her unique take on 'Fashion Fetish' in a haunting film
  • Essay: Age
    Caryn Franklin draws on her work at 'All Walks Beyond the Catwalk' to unpick Marie Schuller's commitment to diversity in 'Visiting Hour'
  • Marie Schuller
    Filmmaker Marie Schuller explores fetish, fantasy and the female nude in this unique trio of films
  • Original Script
    Showing the process behind Asia Argento's 'Don't Bother To Knock', Emma Forrest offers the original script that guided the films' dialogue
  • Asia Argento
    Actress and director Asia Argento fuses fact and fantasy in this provocative series of short films, presented as a 'video diary'
  • Essay: Latex
    Stephanie LaCava talks to VPL's Victoria Bartlett to investigate her passion for all things latex
  • Poppy De Villeneuve
    Director, filmmaker and photographer Poppy De Villeneuve creates a film short examining her unique take on 'Fashion Fetish'
  • Essay: Peep Show
    Susannah Frankel reports on Rei Nadal's Tumblr curation, unpicking fashion and the internet's thirst for individuality
  • Rei Nadal
    Artist Rei Nadal offers a unique take on 'Fashion Fetish' by curating the SHOWstudio Tumblr for a one-week period from 2-8 April 2012
  • Essay: Red Lips
    In response to Ruth Hogben's 'Fashion Fetish' film, Lou Stoppard unpicks the ever-fashionable obsession with the painted, pouted lip
  • Ruth Hogben
    Ruth Hogben's provocative fashion film 'Love Me' starring Karlie Kloss

About

Alongside the 2012 SHOWstudio Shop exhibition Selling Sex, SHOWstudio launches a unique project under the provocative title Fashion Fetish. Created entirely by women working in fashion - including Ruth Hogben, Daphne Guinness, Liberty Ross, Rei Nadel, Asia Argento, Aimee Mullins and Dasha Zhukova of Garage magazine - these fashion films, performances and multi-media pieces make a comment on the fusion of fashion with fetish, a contentious and provocative subject. Each piece will be accompanied by an essay by a female writer, each written in 'response' to a specific film. One piece will be released each week for the duration of the Selling Sex exhibition, and beyond.

If, historically speaking, a fetish is a manufactured object which has magical powers, or one that people are irrationally devoted to, fashion is a veritable fetish-factory of 'It' shoes, 'Now' bags, and garments that magically propose to make your life indefinably better. On a less abstract level, fashion has been obsessed with sexual fetishism for centuries. The subtle constraint of the corset, the snugly-gloved hand, a shiny boot of leather - all staples of the well-dressed man or woman, and equally the well-equipped Sado-Masochist. At the turn of the twentieth century, the Pandora's Box of fashion fetish was blown apart - from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's proposal of 'rubberwear for the office' in their seminal London boutique SEX, to Gianni Versace's sanitised 'Bondage Chic' of 1992, to the power of John Galliano's 'Sado-Maso' haute couture collection for Christian Dior in 2000, designers articulated the sexual peccadilloes of a select few across the international catwalks. It's fetish as fashion.

Fashion Fetish hands the power entirely to female fashion professionals, asking them to address the notion of Fashion Fetish and examining their individual visions of women. In contrast with Selling Sex, which reimagines the female relationship with sex, Fashion Fetish focuses on a woman's relationship with clothing. Although as fashion historian Anne Hollander has asserted, the nude in art always wears 'The fashion of her time' - fashion's influence can be felt across the naked flesh, her body as 'fashioned' as a corseted ball-gown. Dressed or undressed, this project offers a clear field, a blank canvas and an open mind to a selection of some of the most important women working in fashion today - designers, stylists, models and image-makers - inviting them to present their own interpretation of Fashion Fetish. Their visual interpretations of the Fashion Fetish theme are then used as the inspiration for a host of female authors, journalists and cultural commentators to 'unpick' fetish in a series of accompanying essays, each written to correspond with a particular piece.

Credits / Contributors

  • Alice Hawkins Alice Hawkins
    Photographer
    Working at Agent Provocateur was like being in a pink bubble dream every day, surrounded by beautiful lingerie and beautiful girls.
  • Lily Donaldson Lily Donaldson
    Model
    I wanted the video to feel a bit unpalatable and seedy - like a crappy old VCR that's been found and put on YouTube. Very dodgy and amateur.
  • Dasha Zhukova Dasha Zhukova
    Creative Director
    I think obsession with fashion looms prominently in the everyday, and our fetishes in relation to it are just as habitual as they are sexual
  • Luci Schroder Luci Schroder
    Film Director
    The fall into love can happen so fast, the desire all consuming. The longing to love often preceeding our lover.
  • Aimee Mullins Aimee Mullins
    Actor
    At the moment of fetish perfection, when the 'ball goes into the hole,' the fetishy mind lights up like a candelabra.
  • Liberty Ross Liberty Ross
    Model
    To me the act of dressing up, tying up and fetishism has its primal urges in childhood.
  • Daphne Guinness Daphne Guinness
    Actress
    My fetish is my eyes. I use contact lenses in order to make the world more soft. So I think it may be, to me, another form of defense.
  • Ruth Hogben Ruth Hogben
    Film Director
    This film is so important to me - to be able to explore a woman's different desires about her self, myself. Karlie is amazing to watch.
  • Rei Nadal Rei Nadal
    Artist
    I've finally realised how powerful and personal fashion can be. It transformed me every day into a totally different person.
  • Poppy de Villeneuve Poppy de Villeneuve
    Film Director
    I think fashion films allow people to look again and for longer, the decisive moment continues.
  • Marie Schuller Marie Schuller
    Filmmaker
    Explicit sexual imagery is everywhere, yet female bodies outside the norms of shape, age and size, while beautiful, remain underrepresented
  • Ellie Grace Cumming Ellie Grace Cumming
    Stylist
    I wanted to make a film about triciphilia from a new perspective, taking it away from the seedy websites where people pay to watch girls
  • Anna Trevelyan Anna Trevelyan
    Stylist
    This film is inspired by and based on the Instagram girls we love - Tumblr generation twitter addicts. It's the fetish of self-obsession.
  • Polly Borland Polly Borland
    Photographer
    Our film is a fusion of and continuation of my new body of work and the artistic and emotional preoccupations of Liberty.
  • Erica Schreiner Erica Schreiner
    Artist
    Metamorphosis knits together two paralleled stories about the life of an artist - it's the growth and death of an artist and her art.
  • Valerie Steele Valerie Steele
    Curator
    If you can’t see a person’s eyes, you may feel uneasy, as though something (their soul? their intentions?) were being concealed from you
  • Caryn Franklin Caryn Franklin
    Fashion Journalist
    Our industry’s default setting for showcasing design on an angular teenage model makes for awkward viewing of any new fetish inspired trend
  • Alison Bancroft Alison Bancroft
    Writer
    Fashion is all about radical femininity. That's why people are so threatened by it.
  • Asia Argento Asia Argento
    Actor
  • Susannah Frankel Susannah Frankel
    Writer
  • Stephanie LaCava Stephanie LaCava
    Writer
  • Emma Forrest Emma Forrest
    Writer
  • Lou Stoppard Lou Stoppard
    Writer
  • Harriet Walker Harriet Walker
    Writer
  • Becky Conekin Becky Conekin
    Writer
  • Emer O'Toole Emer O'Toole
    Writer
  • Roberta McGrath Roberta McGrath
    Writer
  • Erika Eiffel Erika Eiffel
    Spokesperson
  • Katharine K. Zarrella Katharine K. Zarrella
    Writer
  • Victoria  Turk Victoria Turk
    Writer
  • Tom Guinness Tom Guinness
    Stylist

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