Pitti and Milan S/S 24 Menswear: Daily Round-Up

Pitti S/S 24 Menswear Day One: ERL, Fendi

This year's guest designers at Pitti Uomo are none other than Venice Beach based brand ERL and Italian design titan Fendi. The former's all-American aesthetic looked to the East Coast this time around, more specifically New York City. Mahlich notes it's ERL's first runway show and commends the tailoring that she dubs 'warped' and 'futuristic'. As for Fendi, Mahlich explains the company has spent the last few years investing in their manufacturing with this show a love letter to the Fendi Factory community of artisans.

Milan S/S 24 Menswear Day One: Valentino, Gucci

Tailoring was the name of the game on the first day of the Milan S/S 24 menswear shows as seen at Valentino and Gucci. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli was inspired by the Hanya Yanagihara novel A Little Life to explore different facets of masculinity. Mahlich notes this was apparent in the boyish silhouette with broad-shoulder blazers paired with shorts, socks, and brogues. Similarly, Gucci played with the classics by reworking 70s tailoring straight from their archives. Sizes were amplified and reduced with jackets fitted with short sleeves, or elongated hems.

Milan S/S 24 Menswear Day Two: MSGM, Neil Barrett, JORDANLUCA

Reframing the sartorial codes of menswear is a recurring theme in Milan this season according to our editor. At MSGM Massimo Giorgetti celebrated his recent safari holiday by printing his own photos on classic summer staples like boxy shirts. This silhouette also defined Neil Barrett‘s ‘concise‘ collection that harkened to the designer‘s nineties style. Mahlich notes the most radical proposition came from JORDANLUCA’s first womenswear offering.

Milan S/S 24 Menswear Day Three: Prada, Etro, Magliano, JW Anderson

In her final Milan roundup, Mahlich notes Prada's theatrical slime display on the runway. The viral-seeking set design accompanied a collection of belted jumpsuits and elongated sleeves which were carefully distorted by the slime as they waltzed down the catwalk. Bursts of colour also crept through, as they predictably did at Etro this season - however, the Etro's signature use of colour and print were underpinned by 'looseness' for S/S 24, made perfect for the incoming heatwaves for the Etro customer. Magliano made magic once again by thinking deeper about the true identity of clothes, working this idea into multiple layering and tying of knots to bring different textures together. As for JW Anderson, the designer presented a stripped back version of his usual with key words like 'calmness' metaphorically laced throughout.