The Folklore That Inspired Thebe Magugu
Since Thebe Magugu won the LVMH Prize in 2019, the South African designer has not slowed down. In the last year alone, he was plucked as AZ Factory’s very first Amigo — the initiative where rotating guest designers keep the legacy of Alber Elbaz alive —, collaborated with Maria Grazia Chiuru and Charlize Theron on a Dior capsule collection and produced a documentary on the effects of textile waste in Johannesburg as part of his S/S 23 collection. With ambitions to match his undeniable talent as a womenswear designer, it's easy to understand why he stood out among his contemporaries vying for the coveted accolade. If further proof was needed as to why Magugu is one of today's top talents, you only need to look at his A/W 23 collection inspired by the oral traditions of his African heritage.
A fitting starting point for the designer whose career has been highly focused on storytelling. From first hand-accounts of spies during the apartheid to exploring indigenous cultures, Magugu’s thoughtful and well-researched approach to design is rooted in sharing his South African perspective and heritage. Dubbed 'Folkloric', Magugu explained the collection as an exploration of ‘stories, legends and myths passed down from generation to generation’. And that’s certainly apparent in the designer’s choice of prints. Signature shirt dresses and tailored trousers are stamped with an illustration from the 1800s depicting the chaos of a shipwreck. ‘This alludes to Mami Wata, a half-woman half-sea creature that lures fisherman astray,’ he says.
Another print used throughout the collection was inspired by San rock art, a practice of South Africa’s indigenous population. ‘Its a print featuring a red rock in Johannesburg and began drawing men hunting bisons, referring to one of the earliest forms of communication.’ The practice dating back tens of thousands of years, is refreshed on Magugu’s contemporary silhouettes. ‘These are my favourite prints in the collection because of how they communicate the intention and storyline of the collection.’
There’s a refreshing sophistication to Magugu’s signature silhouettes. Throughout his oeuvre, mainstays include airy pleated skirts, relaxed shirting and fringe detailing. After all, ease of movement is an important factor within Magugu’s work. Never relying on showmanship or gimmicks – opting for look books over runway shows since 2019 – this season, the designer wanted to refine his design ethos even more. ‘[I’ve] stripped it down to the core. Focusing on shapes and detailing that isn’t fussy,’ he explains. ‘I’ve leaned quite a lot into an African silhouette – roomy, regal and not concerned with showing off the body in an obvious way.’
While restrained is one way to describe Magugu’s latest proposition, I certainly wouldn’t label it as conservative. For Magugu it’s all about empowering his customer, a woman he describes as ‘curious, confident and incredibly worldly’. This translates into a distinctive uptown utilitarianism with workwear jackets and tailoring finished with cord lock toggles to cinch the waist and sleeves. This self-assuredness is further translated into the imagery which was shot by Pieter Hugo and styled by Chloe Andrea Welgemoed. Models find themselves in front of both a beach and industrial lot. For Magugu the contrast between the natural and the manmade represents the evolving nature of stories that are passed down.