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Show Report

Show Report: Rick Owens A/W 12 Menswear

by Hywel Davies on 19 January 2012

Hywel Davies reports on the Rick Owens A/W 12 menswear show.

Hywel Davies reports on the Rick Owens A/W 12 menswear show.

The American in Paris, Rick Owens continues to present his warrior aesthetic to his legions of fans. Fusing military, sports and tailoring influences, Owens successfully plays out a post apocalyptic vision through his succinct colour palette, gaunt models and electrifying techno music.

Owens’s loyal customers respond to the atmosphere of his clothes and are rarely disappointed by the powerful delivery of his vision and these dark and morose presentations continue to offer new subtle differences on his clearly refined message.

This season along with his black and white signature palette, Owens introduced a light blue hue that successfully broke up his monochromatic message. This was a collection was more masculine for Owens and even quite chic and the designer cited Fred Astaire as the catalyst for this new lightness and informed the garment shapes.

This new buoyancy developed across the collection as Owens seemingly explored a newer and fresher silhouette. High waist trousers were graphic and were cut super slim and sartorial influences included skinny leather jackets and double-breasted jackets with shaggy textures. White turtlenecks worn over undershirts and cropped jackets all were cut with a new sensitive approach.

Moving away from his iconic floor sweeping leather coats, oversized synthetic funnel-neck bomber jackets were a clever solution. Along with the models glossy hair and shiny synthetic fabrics, Owens new mood is a positive progression for the designer. While Owens’s clarity of design and aesthetic is set, this ability to slightly shift the focus of his collection through subtle design changes each season, ensures the Rick Owens customer will continually come back for more.

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