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Show Report

Show Report: Jil Sander A/W 13 Womenswear

by Lou Stoppard on 23 February 2013

Lou Stoppard reports on the Jil Sander A/W 13 womenswear show.

Lou Stoppard reports on the Jil Sander A/W 13 womenswear show.

Jil Sander's not one for in-your-face detailing or up-front fuss. That's why this season the most interesting details came on the back of her garments. You won't see those perfect seams or pleats on the reams of online 2D runway images, so - as is always the way when translating catwalk magic to computer screen - lots will get lost in translation. Then again that's what Sanders does - she invites you in and gives you a peak so that you actually want to wear her clothes and explore their feel, not simply covet them online. Those midi skirts with perfect details at the back to accentuate the bum begged to be tried on.

This season Sander had taken inspiration from the work of Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, as well as Mandelbrod's fractals. It was an aptly cerebral starting point for a smart designer like Sander who's women like to know that their clothes were made with precision and consideration. Still, she'd allowed herself some more freedom with the accessories, see the updated version of that infamous sandwich bag and her hefty, stumpy loafers. Additionally, the closing looks with gold mesh collars and panels gave us a brilliant look at what it would be like if Sander were ever to do bling.

There is something about minimalism that always makes pieces feel intensely valuable and pure in a way that embellishment and fuss never can.

There was more freedom in the tone of this collection compared to last season's austere palette of navy, white and burgundy. She'd opted for 'high-carat femininity', which was realised through a range of gemstone colours. This was about preciousness. There is something about minimalism that always makes pieces feel intensely valuable and pure in a way that embellishment and fuss never can. Today's clothing exemplified this - they were rare jewels and carefully sculpted ornaments. Unique and perfect - like the Jil Sander woman strives to be.

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