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Show Report

Show Report: Moschino A/W 13 Womenswear

by Lou Stoppard on 22 February 2013

Lou Stoppard reports on the Moschino A/W 13 womenswear show.

Lou Stoppard reports on the Moschino A/W 13 womenswear show.

It's hard to dislike a show with a soundtrack so heartwarmingly perfect as Moschino's. First came Oasis's Wonderwall, then The Verve's Bitter Sweet Symphony, then - if we thought it couldn't get any better - Blur's Girls and Boys.

Given that I spent most of the show reminiscing about the best of Britpop, proper analysis of the clothing may have been sub-standard. Still, this was business as usual for Moschino, whose creative director Rossella Jardini always managed to whip up a cheery mix of flirty frocks and playful accessories. Today's showing was an ode to British youth culture, hence the St Trinian's minis, fitted blazers, ankle socks and fetishistic riding caps. The general look was preppy and posh - all riding trousers, preened high pony tales and Carnaby Street-ready minis - a hangover from last season's swinging sixties affair. The only subversion came in the chunky Dalston Market-esque gold jewellery and couple of punkier looks - see the heavily embellished skirt suits and fringed cowgirl jackets - clearly thrown in for the bad girls at the back of the class. 

Given that I spent most of the show reminiscing about the best of Britpop, proper analysis of the clothing may have been sub-standard.

Scotland had proved a particular point of reference, hence the tartan and kilts. In general, fabrics resembled the kind of dated upholstery one would find around an old English country manor, from the stiff red jacquard to the navy check. Some of the dresses came cut with an eighties frill across the skirt - a dated touch that made them resemble something Bridget Jones' mother might encourage her to wear. But then again who doesn't love a collection that so tenuously straddles the line between good and bad taste? Some of the frocks could have been straight out of the bridesmaid costume department from Four Weddings and a Funeral - and isn't that what truly being British is all about?

Jardini is the second designer in Milan this season to reference the UK. For us British press, proud as we are of our amazing crop of talented young designers, this was a welcome bit of flattery and a perfect remedy for those feeling homesick. It seems only right that as London continues to stake its claim as the most creative fashion capital, other cities turn their attention to our rich fashion history and sartorial quirks. All in all, you couldn't help but feel patriotic.

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