Sometimes I wonder if PPQ really despise Hedi Slimane because he basically does everything they did in the early 2000’s now, to riotous applause. Unfortunately rather than sticking it out on the indie bandwagon they decided to shift focus away from skinny band boys in skinny jeans and patent leather shoes and, for a substantial number of seasons, have become more concerned with having a front row crammed full of lipsticked people photographers take pictures of and then shrug. When you’re told five minutes before the show starts that you’re in the wrong seat or uh you’re not technically but can you move because, 'I want to fit some more celebs in here' (to paraphrase the PR), you know this is a label that has very little to do with fashion anymore. It’s a shame, because when the PR finally stops hounding you to disappear and the clothes start coming out it’s clear that PPQ can still do party dresses.
If the black tiered pencil skirts and white fitted silk shirts that opened the show were a half-sincere attempt at work-to-party dressing, the rest of the collection had never had a job and never wanted one. Sure, the cutout velvet and lace trim might err pretty close to Christopher Kane and the black velvet all-in-one resemble Pam Hogg a bit too closely but in the right context, at the right party, they could work. Unfortunately this was not that party, it was the downstairs of a hotel filled with nobody you wanted to make eye contact with. But hey, there were 'celebs' there, so who cares?