Prabal Gurung loves mountains but this season, he swapped his beloved Himalayan peaks for something closer to home - the Adirondacks in upstate New York. That fresh air must have done more than just blow the cobwebs away for him – it also got rid off the excess embellishment and unnecessary clutter from his collection. Tonight’s show was pared back, as much as can possibly be for Gurung without him morphing into an entirely different designer, and still luxurious and glam. See what a weekend away can do for the soul?
The silhouettes were more relaxed and forgiving too. A silk slip dress opened the show with a grey wool duffle coat on top – and a fur-trimmed hood, of course – and it was followed by a grey cashmere turtleneck over a softly pleated skirt and a cashmere bomber lined in silver fox fur. We are used to seeing a lot of fur on the New York runways but Gurung seemed to revel in the stuff, allowing himself to be superfluous here but not elsewhere. Jamie Bochert in a simple alabaster long-sleeve dress with nothing but a chiffon hem and a plunging back epitomised this fresh new Gurung woman. And so did a radiant Kirsty Hume in a black leopard jacquard dress. The necklines were low and the slits high but underneath all that fur who cares? Gurung has a great eye for colour and the burnt orange, garnet and crimson red part of the show worked brilliantly against all that grey – and no, don’t even go there. If you thought it couldn’t get more va va voom than Frankie Rayder in a beaded slip dress, out came Caroline Trentini in a navy long t-shirt gown dripping in sequins, her back beautifully bare in just-low-enough triangle cut. Too much? Not at all!