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Show Report

Show Report: Roksanda A/W 15 Womenswear

by Lou Stoppard on 24 February 2015

Lou Stoppard reports on the Roksanda A/W 15 womenswear show.

Lou Stoppard reports on the Roksanda A/W 15 womenswear show.

Roksanda Ilinčić's skill is colour. She makes the unexpected and potentially dowdy look elegant and crisp, imbuing it with a lightness that can feel almost whimsical and intelligently retro. She'd vamped last season's more sugary hues, opting to deepen them into rich, inky, regal tones - royal blue, aubergine, bold pink, mustard. Thinking about it, regal is a good word for the Roksanda woman - she's poised, in control, polished, sensual but never dishevelled. Indeed, that vague loftiness that always underpins a Roksanda look was pushed further for Autumn/Winter 2015. Maybe it was the combination of those typically vintage-look cuts with the oversized furs, but the ensembles had a certain pomp, heaviness and formality. That was enhanced by the fabrics, some of which had been crafted using traditional tapestry processes. Yet this collection still felt fresh - alongside colour, maybe that's Ilinčić's other great skill. Despite the obvious workmanship - which today included everything from laser-cutting of leather to opulent hand-embroidery - her work never feels laboured. There's an effortlessness and considered waywardness. Her collections are undone enough to feel modern - they capture that illusive magic truly stylish women have; the ability to look chic without looking like you've over-thought your ensemble. In other words, there's the perfect balance of precision and thrown-together-ness. That came through most successfully for A/W 15 in the balance between kinetic full skirts and cheerful fluff and fuzz, and strict tailoring and perfectly planned stripes, so neat and exact they looked like they'd been rendered by a mathematician, albeit one with a flare for drama.

On the note of Ilinčić's skill with colour, she personally favours a red lip  - she's skilled at picking the perfect shade - and that signature beauty choice was reflected on each and every model. They appeared like mini Roksandas. Wise - she's her brand's own best ambassador. So, despite her label’s growth (note the shiny new Mount Street store) this collection felt as personal and from-the-heart as ever. There was a real woman in those clothes.

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