Show Report: Altuzarra A/W 16 Womenswear

In Jim Jarmusch’s Only Lovers Left Alive, Tilda Swinton and Tom Hiddleston are ageless vampires who roam the world, from Detroit, Michigan to Tangiers, Morocco feasting on culture, the arts and well yes, blood. Joseph Altuzarra mentioned Jarmusch’s film as a source of inspiration for his latest collection and in particular 'the rich, patchworked world the central characters inhabit.' Bloodsucking aside, Altuzarra has been weaving together his eclectic 'tapestry of references', as he called it, from the very beginning and timelessness is integral to his brand. This collection was a feast for the eyes, mixing together textiles and patterns – from Indian paisleys to Turkish folk costumes and Venetian pearls. But it also had real urgency to it – from the beat of the models’ walk to the satin and velvet stripes that sped up and across drawstring trousers and skirts.

Paisley, floral and geometric foulard prints mixed on fringed sweaters and handkerchief-hem dresses lined with pearl buttons. Altuzarra, thinking of his customers around the world, layered some with ribbed knit cardigans and striped turtlenecks making them both time and season-less. A standout shearling-lined parka was a patchwork of black leather, a couple of contrasting florals and some paisley thrown in for good measure. Before we get to the scene-stealing finale dresses it’s worth mentioning the countless separates the designer offered. From jacquard jackets and silk straight-cut trousers to pencil skirts and colour-block sweaters, Altuzarra clearly knows his customers and the individual wardrobe they want to build. They have plenty of options here. And he delivered again with those finale looks - the burgundy and sage gowns shimmered with rich sequin embroideries but never heaved. Made for lovers or at least, a big red carpet.