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Show Report

Show Report: Missoni A/W 16 Womenswear

by Lucy Norris on 1 March 2016

Lucy Norris reports on the Missoni A/W 16 womenswear show.

Lucy Norris reports on the Missoni A/W 16 womenswear show.

There wasn't so much a seasonal theme at Missoni. It was pretty much about exploring the label's timely foothold in the seventies - via trailing scarves and floor length dresses. The first section had an ingénue groupie vibe, which also saw scarves combined with short coats, ankle socks and t-bar shoes. The show notes mentioned something about New York and an uptown feel. Whether this meant seventies Harlem or Upper East Side society girls was unclear - we were left to make up our own minds. There were definitely a lot of clothing options here, within which to do so.

The two highlights were 3D patchwork coats and some long diaphanous lurex dresses. It was great to see Missoni going for some laid back sparkle. Lurex is not only an archetypal seventies yarn but it helps Missoni very much align itself with the fake vintage revival. Tiered fringe capes in lurex yarn were magnificent too. This collection really needed this cleaner lurex section, as it created a step change away from the multi yarn and zig zags, which at times can feel a little too idiosyncratic for its own good.

Other interesting components were the unusual colour combinations, which saw sherbet mauve combine with burnt umber, alongside turquoise, buttercup yellow, and emerald. Click-click-click went the needles, and vroom-vroom went the knitting machine, as a multitude of colours intertwined. The scarf category was reignited via the luxe offerings of some rather nice blankets - which will no doubt do well. In terms of creative link ups, on social media, the brand did a collaboration with artist Flávio Flavelli - who did a takeover of their Snapchat. Nice zig-zag ghost, Flávio.

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