index
Show Report

Show Report: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood A/W 18 Womenswear

by Georgina Evans on 3 March 2018

Georgina Evans reports on the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood A/W 18 womenswear show.

Georgina Evans reports on the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood A/W 18 womenswear show.

'I want to pay homage to you as my collaborator, my friend and partner, my teacher and of course my muse,' Andreas Kronthaler wrote in his hand-written shownotes. A love letter to Vivienne Westwood, this collection was a celebration of all the great aspects of Westwood’s career; Teddy boy tailoring, fifties wallpaper and carpet from Let It Rock on the Kings Road, rubber, red Harris tweed, hair print, catsuits. All items that you instantly recognise as Westwood. This very much felt like a harking back to the glory days, perhaps a reminder of where these ubiquitous looks began.

Three London performers mounted plinths and began gyrating and thrusting in leather and torn fabric stylings. This performative element reminded me of Charles Jeffrey’s latest show - not the first time Jeffrey has been noted to reference Westwood - and indeed he was sat beaming in the front row. It felt as though both London club-kid worlds were combining, both influencing one another.

Kronthaler and Westwood are the originals in punk, archetypal styles, club-kids, riot and passion, but this offering seemed like a homage to the young London designers who follow in their footsteps. Womenswear designer Matty Bovan walked the runway to great smiles and cheers from the British press, and rather unfortunately, Fashion East’s Rottingdean Bazaar’s 'We Do Big Sizes' t-shirt appeared, layered with designer Louise Gray’s images, which just showed with Marques’Almeida. All cast backstage were wearing these copycat tees throughout rehearsal and hair and make-up too.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood A/W 18

Copying without credit, particularly when both copied designers are young, emerging and lacking in funding, is ultimately unethical. Westwood and Kronthaler stated that they got 'caught up in the frenzy' and didn’t contact to ask permission. If you have time to get 25 t-shirts printed, then you have time to credit the designers and creatives in which you have so directly copied. There needs to be appropriate pay, appropriate accreditation.

It is such a shame that such a fumble occurred, this was a really fantastic collection with all the aspects of a captivating Westwood and Kronthaler show; towering platform heels, dresses made from recycled previous collections, dramatic empire lines, the odd tumble from a model. The finale was wonderful, upbeat with hugs and flowers, but to make such a misstep - particularly from a brand that celebrates ethics and equality - gave this love letter a saddening animosity.

Explore

Show Report

Show Report: Y/Project A/W 18 Womenswear

01 March 2018
Georgina Evans reports on Glenn Martens' Y/Project A/W 18 womenswear show.
Show Report

Show Report: Dries Van Noten A/W 18 Womenswear

02 March 2018
Georgina Evans reports on the Dries Van Noten A/W 18 Womenswear show.
Show Report

Show Report: Comme des Garçons A/W 18 Womenswear

03 March 2018
Georgina Evans reports on Rei Kawakubo's Comme Des Garçons A/W 18 womenswear show.