If Lucie and Luke Meier had their way, every day would be a duvet day. The husband and wife duo sent a deliciously supple, and highly covetable collection down the runway for A/W 18.
The theme of domesticity was immediately obvious when one model floated down the catwalk with a white pillow tucked under her arm. Soon, there were blankets and puffer capes that strapped diagonally across the body. Padded scarves were also wrapped over relaxed two-piece suits. A transportable duvet for modern life.
The last few looks took the collection to bed. A series of soft cotton shirts with pastel stripes, reminiscent of pyjamas, was followed by a final, wonderfully ethereal day-dress-cum-nightdress with slanted buttons that ran across the body and exaggerated cuffs. Simple enough, but clever, and all wearable too.
As a collection, it was anything but sleepy, it was switched on and precise; silhouettes were sculptural and organic, designs investigated volume through perfect tailoring, skirts and coats arced around the body, offering a gentle exaggeration of the hourglass figure. One commendable detail was the use of thick elastic armbands on sleeves, which gave a fluted effect. Another touch was thick, elasticated pockets on some of the coats – a dream spot for hiding hands in colder months.
Texture played an important role in the rendering of these designs: a punchy, red two-piece was made from puckered wool, a black sweatshirt was enlivened with small sacks of silk that popped across the body, loud Chinese and floral prints on fur and cashmere full-length coats were showpieces, without feeling ostentatious. The shoes reflected a use of texture and form too, as thick rubber soles snuck out under oversized wool trousers, leather bows fell over the sides of flats, and a faux-duster slipper finished a grey two-piece suit.
No, it wasn’t groundbreaking, but it did feel perfectly Jil Sander: an absence of the fantastical, while still demonstrating imagination. While it worked for both men and women without feeling deliberately unisex, there was still space to experiment with feminine and masculine hues. Staying true to the language of Jil Sander (the iconic navy was present in various looks), the Meiers have created a distinct identity of their own.
