Junior Kimbrough's anthem "I gotta try you girl," was a huge part of the spectacle at Saint Laurent. Yes, there was the special Grand Palais entrance, splitting black ceiling and descending yellow rimmed boom radios, but it was this soundtrack that made literal references to Yves Saint Laurent's legacy seem cooler, tougher and incredibly desirable. Hedi Slimane was trying out a girl who was parts Wiccan, gypsy and rocker. The last was pure Slimane, the former that dark, underworld Renaissance all over the Paris runways, and the "gypsy," real Saint Laurent down to the turquoise, green and red jewel tone looks sent out in a stream of black, Safari suede gone Western, and pussy bow blouses.
The hats were cool and will certainly be coveted, in a way that will leave real fashion people unable to wear them especially when they show up on high street. It's a look that's good when it was your own, before it was inaugurated as cool in such a statement show. All this means is that there were endless commercial hits. Were those Russian collection sleeves and tassels? An LSD laden floral print nod to the peasant blouses of yore, Betty Catroux might like the longer version of the safari dress as worn by Edie Campbell, and Loulou de la Falaise would have applauded the shots of jewel tones. This is good, going to get better.