Nostalgic fashion fans may think of the Calvin Klein codes as sensuality and soft, wholesome masculinity - white boxers, blue denim, divine forms - but Italo Zucchelli's preoccupation is technology and fabric innovation. That's why his collections can feel asexual - they're not made with real men in mind, rather a super kind of man from the future. They have the Iron John masculinity we'd expect from CK but none of the warmth or seductiveness. That's saying a lot when the majority of looks in this collection came in head to toe nude, meaning if you squinted, or were sat in the rafters, the models practically looked naked. That's also not a criticism. Zucchelli's collections consistently have a point of view.
S/S 15's seemed to focus mostly on sporting prowess, hence those running shorts, racer back vests and underwear styles worn as outerwear - now that's a nod to the house codes. The interest, and colour, came through in details, starting with sneak peeks of team hues - red, orange and yellow - in PVC under vests. Later, these tones shone on a series of PVC tops and blouson jackets - a needed glimmer of surface excitement and oddness in a collection where all the intrigue lay in the techniques and fabrics. But then Zucchelli's not a designer who likes using garments as soap boxes. Perhaps that's what today - and all the nude - was about; clothes not as statements but just accessories to the body and physique. What a novel ideal in the high fashion world.
