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Show Report

Show Report: Fendi S/S 15 Womenswear

by Harriet Walker on 18 September 2014

Harriet Walker reports on the Fendi S/S 15 womenswear show.

Harriet Walker reports on the Fendi S/S 15 womenswear show.

The catwalk was painted as a road and the soundtrack featured the zooming motorbikes that form the background noise to any Roman holiday.

But the collection was more eclectic than a simple Italian homage. A hibiscus flower informed much of it - printed as a trefoil on silk shift dresses, pyjama-style suits and dresses with asymmetry cape-backs. The models wore a leather version in their hair, and the shape, with all its abundant fronds, was stencilled onto and rendered in 3d onto jackets and skirt suits in supple skins.

Beautiful chocolate brown suede pieces were ribboned to show a double face of blue, and then orange, giving depth to what was possibly Lagerfeld's most street-informed collection at the house for some time.

That isn't to say that the finish and fabrication weren't of the usual standard -the clothes Fendi produces are at a near-couture level in their workmanship. A series of cellophane-ish overlays to a paillette jacket and a stunning minidress made from panels of shaved and shaped fur were proof of that.

But the collection felt more immediate for its brevity of skirts and a profusion of layered, easygoing pieces, such as drop crotch leather trousers and the odd bomber shape. Of course, prices dictate that not everyone will be wearing these down the shops, but there was an accessibility here.

Expect to see the motifs and cumulative parts of this catwalk (colours in particular - as well as chocolate and burnt sienna, there was a pale, almost icy blue) filter down to retailers near you.

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