Nothing is simple in the J.W. Anderson universe, although some of it may appear deceptively minimal. His Spring/Summer 2015 collection was no different: a beach trip inspired by French filmmaker Jacques Tati may sound idyllic but in Anderson's hands it becomes something rather more complex.
On what sort of beach would you wear leather, for instance? Perhaps influenced by his new tenure at Spanish house Loewe, Anderson used lashings of it, buttery and soft in shades that spanned azure, claret, baby pink and black. It came on re-imagined floppy-brimmed sunhats and as bunched gauntlet gloves, as well as wrapped around light linen dresses as bustiers, and cut into bcbg skirt suits.
The silhouette was short and A-line, in worsted and linen, even cropped in a sort of techie terry towelling in red wine and astroturf green. Gold button detailing came on distorted sailor bibs at the back of wide-leg trousers. These repeated on shell tops finished with sailing rope details and cascading plackets, in an ironic imitation of 'nautique'.
Ultimately this was Anderson's favourite meme: a skewed version of establishment femininity, with the result that every outfit had a grande dame feel that was gilded and camouflaged by very skilful sleight of hand. What's more, it'll sell to women of all ages - although they might not wear it to the beach.
