Show Report: Marios Schwab S/S 15 Womenswear
But for all the references and diversification of form, this wasn't an overcrowded collection. One piece fed into the next fluently, building to a phase of planate gowns panelled with flowing pleats, held together with a luxe take on gaffer tape. They were simultaneously ancient and modern.
But for all the references and diversification of form, this wasn't an overcrowded collection. One piece fed into the next fluently, building to a phase of planate gowns panelled with flowing pleats, held together with a luxe take on gaffer tape. They were simultaneously ancient and modern.
Marios Schwab's Spring/Summer collection was a study in the precision and artistry he is so known for. His ability to find structure in softness and rigidity from the fluid makes for clothing that is at once severe as well as sinuous, beautiful in its strictness.
He opened with teal T-shirts and shell shifts in flowing silk, given structure by gentle darting so that they enhanced the silhouette subtly and without impinging on comfort. These were paired with loose weave woollen separates in a perfect shade of stone.
Apron-fronted dresses and chiton gowns were wrapped and folded into origami layers, while others draped free, such as a scarf-hem dress printed with a dot matrix photo of the ruins of Herculaneum. Trousers were tensile and articulated, looped around the ankle to a pleated front, open on the inside leg.
But for all the references and diversification of form, this wasn't an overcrowded collection. One piece fed into the next fluently, building to a phase of planate gowns panelled with flowing pleats, held together with a luxe take on gaffer tape. They were simultaneously ancient and modern.
Schwab may have left behind the theory and abstracts of his earlier collections in favour of accessibility and hanger appear, but his intellectualised signatures remain in clothing that is not only wearable but readable too.
