Depending on what camp you sit in, Jeremy Scott the new-ish designer at Moschino is either brilliantly continuing Franco Moschino's legacy of unpicking consumer culture and mocking the fashion system, or he's hammering the nail into cerebral fashion's coffin by showing that you can run a mega brand on little more than bad taste and quick wit.
Mega brand. That's an interesting concept to consider after seeing Scott's S/S 15 logo-tastic offering, isn't it? Especially Moschino itself, which - despite the recent parallels to fuss free fast-food - wasn't always catering to those who like to gorge on gear that's busy on the surface but lacking much depth underneath. No it used to be the brand of provocation and social commentary. But Scott doesn't seem to care much for exploring the subtitles of Moschino or any brand for that matter, he's happy just appropriating and messing with the visuals - for S/S 15 the famous Hermes ribbon was used to create a graphic pattern on simplistic sportswear pieces, while 'Chanel' logos were formed from interlocking smiley faces and an Armani-esque logo appeared next to 'Fauxschino' slogans, proving that Scott's just as happy mocking Moschino as any other label. But was this really mocking? He certainly wasn't cutting to the heart of these mass brands, figuring out what they stood for, and ripping it apart. No this was just making a spectacle of the visuals.
The collection suggested Scott, probably like much of his audience, sees brands as little more than logos. Without history and stories those logos are relevantly meaningless, just words that can be flipped and punned and reworked for the most likes and shares. Who cares if the famous Hermes ribbon stands for years of craft and ultimate luxury when it looks fabulous furnishing a pair of eye-popping orange shorts? The problem is that joke has got stale - the fashion pack have all seen, worn and discarded the 'Homiès' beanies and sweatshirts. And while you could argue that back in the day Moschino did it first, the recent fun died around about the time one the Peru two wore a faux Celine t-shirt while on trial for drug-trafficking - a true symbol of the ubiquity of these logo-puns. So who's still smiling? Ironically Scott himself. He's chuckling all the way to the bank - hence all the dollar bill decorations. Because while the concept may not be fresh, it's already proven to pull in punters.