The invitation that came through to all the guests was a STELLA knuckleduster ring, which looked like something Goldie would have worn in the early nineties. Overtly speaking of power, the ring launched through a photograph of a clenched fist. If the invitation had had a speech bubble, it would have said “take that!” It was that idea of really socking Stella to the world.
So, one arrived at the show expecting to see a further display of power, in all of those 'done to death' ways. Is Stella going to be doing tailoring, (which she actually does very well)? No, but the collection sure packed a punch. Stella was having fun. She presented a whole host of wearable options that looked comfortable and ready to live in.
The opening section was, however, a little challenging, with sari wrap hybrid dresses in tartan check. Nonetheless, aertex collars lent a modish quality to the tartan and put these pieces the right side of sporty. Some of the striped pieces became so blurry, they took on a lenticular op-art quality. A one shoulder green asymmetric version looked less intense and easier to wear, whilst super wearable separates included distinctive go-to skirts for the coming season. The lenticular aesthetic continued, with plasma degrade colours, which were micro pleated and draped.
What is great about Stella McCartney, is that her work can be so recognisable. Like Christopher Kane, she has shapes and signature detailing that she commercially owns. The curlicue prints in one section evolved into mesh rococo swirls. These last few dresses were case in point. They were familiar enough for a loyal customer, but new enough to tempt one into the next season.