Joseph Altuzarra is such a focused designer and his collections so sophisticated that fun is not necessarily the first word that springs to mind when describing his designs. Ridiculously chic and elegant, yes. Strong and empowering, sure. Sexy - of course. Well, today’s show put fun on top of that list like a cherry on a cake. Speaking of cherries, they were everywhere - from a flounced bra to the flounce of a skirt, all over a python coat and all the way down to the sheer tights that, worn with black and red knot heels, practically screamed in Parisian French. It was a fruitcake of a show, actually, in the best of ways, with lemons, pineapples and blueberries in the mix too - so unexpected and yet, so very Altuzarra.
The designer referenced David Lynch’s Wild At Heart in his notes and you could easily see Laura Dern’s character Lula in multiple outfits like in a belted, lace-trimmed gingham pencil skirt or a bright pink cardigan trimmed in clashing yellow and paired with a matching sweater. You could see Nicolas Cage’s Sailor too – sort of. The python print was a nod to his jacket in the movie, although it didn't look half as good as the tiered organza finale gown, adorned with sequin cherries and slit high on the leg. The light blue jacket that opened the show looked like a jean jacket from afar. On closer inspection it was revealed to be python, albeit one embroidered with lemons. If you’re worried the designer might be losing his way, don’t. Take each piece on its own and it’s unmistakable Altuzarra, from an olive green cropped cargo jacket to the diagonal button line on a pencil skirt. And then there’s all that gingham! Black on fifties cropped trousers, red on a tailored blazer and aquamarine on a frilly shirtdress. The cropped trousers with flouncy hems were a new addition to the brand’s vocabulary and worn with simple slides they looked just like the kind of option his loyal customers are looking for, to wear in and out of the boardroom. Nothing fruity about those.
