After the sensuality of last season’s Jil Sander show, Rodolfo Paglialunga cleaned things up for S/S 17. Gone were the black leathers. In their place were calming neutrals, and easy dusty pastels. Fashion, notably Milan, is going through a showy moment right now. At Gucci, Alessandro Michele has ushered in a maximalist mood - a return to playful antics and carefree dressing. If others are piling it on, Paglialunga wanted to peel it off. This was about reducing, refining and stripping back. A tangy orange leather jacket, in a signature Sander boxy cut, was the only light relief.
Minimalism and clean lines are in the Sander DNA - sure. But there’s a balance between standing firm and true to your house’s DNA and ending up seeming like a fashion luddite. There can be a lot of merit to perfection and purity, but this lacked enough conviction to truly cleanse the palette. Some looks featured a fading finish - one colour melting into a darker version. Fade away - a good notion for a collection that didn’t grab or move the viewer.
