On Thursday evening, Miuccia Prada was seen at her show wearing trousers. A rare sight and certainly a sign that this season, we are getting down to business.
There were lots of trouser options this season at Marni. The opening look comprised of a pair of utilitarian pants with white patch pockets. Paired with a white shirt and matching white boots, this was definitely Consuelo Castiglioni turning his proverbial book to a new page. The addition of a belt with two oversized pocket bags attached annulled the need for a handbag, and left the models hands free. The idea of pockets creating a peplum is something we have already seen Karl Lagerfeld explore this season at Fendi. At Marni, attached by a belt, the pockets had a pragmatic, military vibe. Remove the belt, and the silhouette not only changes - but the clothes become remarkably seasonless.
As well as white, shades of bone, lemon, brick red, ultramarine blue, milky mauve and khaki were some of the key colours on display. White rope, Capucci style pleating, and knitted ribs added detail and texture to mostly monochrome looks. Rounded oversized sleeves saw fabrics softly concertina into ruched and luxurious volumes . An oversized safari jacket was wrapped tight around the form, thus creating a slimline fit. Hems on skirts were pinned and attached by metal clips, whilst funnel necks on papery jackets held their form. An architectural black cape, which closed the show, was a constructed layering of sections tacked together with fastenings, top to bottom.
Sequins encrusted mottled prints, and felt strangely organic, rather than just decorative. The most desirable dress was velvet and felt foppish yet earnest. There may have been reminders of the more opulent mood from last season, however, the S/S 17 collection embodied a new kind of relaxed uniform, with long crystal earrings and wavy loose hair adding just a little girlishness and sparkle.