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Show Report

Show Report: Opening Ceremony S/S 18 Womenswear

by Ashley Simpson on 11 September 2017

Ashley Simpson reports on the Opening Ceremony S/S 18 show.

Ashley Simpson reports on the Opening Ceremony S/S 18 show.

Opening Ceremony has never been the most traditional shop or brand. Over the years they’ve dripped chocolate from the runway, masked shows as politicised beauty contests, and collaborated with Justin Peck, Esprit, RZA and others. This season, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon staged a dance performance, Changers, at experimental East Village theatre La Mama. Spike Jonze wrote and directed the work and the narrative centred on a young relationship deteriorating. From lying entwined to the tone of Having a Coke with You to walking alone, shoeless in the snow, the piece moved from reflections of shared infatuation to portrayals of isolation and post break-up depression. Mia Wasikowska and Lakeith Stanfield starred and Ryan Heffington choreographed.

Time is marked by changing clothes in the performance, and thus, Lim and Leon’s new collection is interwoven into the storyline. How closely does the apparel relate to the narrative? The connection is arguably tenuous. The clothes, for men and women, are eighties influenced, collegiate offerings. Simple wide-striped tees, loose plaid shirt dresses, puffer jackets in a warm orange red, and a white denim Canadian tuxedo pop up. It’s everyday wear - everything is effortlessly wearable, and nothing feels particularly 'fashion'. (Not that that’s a bad thing). A violet shearling lined coat is a highlight. A salmon pink corduroy jacket with matching pants also stands out. There’s an accessibility to the collection. The clothes are meant to be moved in and lived in.

Is this enough? And is there a real tie to performance? It was a pleasurable, and at times moving, view; the clothes will no doubt be consumed easily, whether they resonate in greater terms or not.

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