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Show Report

Show Report: Mary Katrantzou S/S 19 Womenswear

by Georgina Evans on 17 September 2018

Georgina Evans reports on the Mary Katrantzou S/S 19 womenswear show.

Georgina Evans reports on the Mary Katrantzou S/S 19 womenswear show.

Happy ten year anniversary Mary Katrantzou! It's amazing to think of all the incredible pieces within Katrantzou's archive, all the many show-stopping looks that have emerged from the house: A/W 11's precious objects, S/S 11's surrealism, A/W 09's 'Woman in a bottle', her digital print revolution - all mystical masterpieces. For S/S 19, expectations were high.

At first glance, it seemed as though Katrantzou had been rummaging in an attic of wonderful charms and trinkets. This was a celebration of collectable pieces, making the mundane - such as stamps, lamps, jewellery boxes - beautiful. I suppose that's what Katrantzou is known best for - making the odd and seemingly uninspiring hugely significant and memorable with her precision and decadence.

Mary Katrantzou S/S 19 Womenswear
An iPad structure was strapped to a detailed lucite vest as if for security, a plastic bolero had sealed flowers within it, butterflies were embroidered as if to look like a personal taxidermy collection. It felt familiar yet newfangled. Wonderfully peculiar and delightfully detailed.

This collection was very much a reminder of such skills; stamp collections were transformed into incredibly detailed thick strapped dresses, each stamp representing a part of Mary K history. An iPad structure was strapped to a detailed lucite vest as if for security, a plastic bolero had sealed flowers within it, butterflies were embroidered as if to look like a personal taxidermy collection. It felt familiar yet newfangled. Wonderfully peculiar and delightfully detailed.

Indeed, the detail throughout the collection was spectacular. Such illustrious shapes and sequins created the most ornate and fanciful structures that curved and waned, even with the difficult footwear, as the models walked. Graphic art medleys were almost dip-dyed on a ‘fragile tape dress and hammered home' the theme of the collection.

As the finale walked, the curtain in the centre of Camden’s roundhouse lifted. Katrantzou’s behemoth archive was revealed - her own collection of incredible works. Her impeccable craft and dedication to her signature truly shining. Katrantzou may not be everyone’s style, in fact, there are few who roam the streets of London in such apparel, but one cannot deny the urge to collect Katrantzou.

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