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Show Report

Show Report: Acne A/W 12 Menswear

by Hywel Davies on 22 January 2012

Hywel Davies reports on the Acne A/W 12 menswear show.

Hywel Davies reports on the Acne A/W 12 menswear show.

Jonny Johansson at Acne has a heightened capacity to fine-tune his signature style-modernity each season to produce consistently hyper-cool clothes.

For the winter 2012 collection the designer created clashes and unexpected combinations with a nod back to seventies style. The theme, defined as “Swedish Seventies functionality” documented retro colours and tonal styling into a wardrobe that fused romance and function into a sharp anthology of impressive clothes.

Fashion as utility is core to Acne’s DNA and the collection presented refined wares including summer shorts, skinny trousers, cable knitwear and sporty anoraks. The fabrics enlisted included mohair, Harris Tweed and the brands catalyst to success, denim was enlisted as Johansson presented Acne’s acute sensitivity to the staples. Fake fabrics were also a key element to the message as faux leather, imitation fur and polyester were formed into contemporary shapes and suggested high-end fashion doesn't need to be validated by traditionally luxurious fabrics. Bright heart graphics gave the collection a further edge and again subverted the notion of serious fashion.

A seditious approach to style defines Acne’s aesthetic, and this collection which closed Paris menswear, confirmed the brand's position at the nucleus of contemporary menswear. Acne exemplifies modernity and this laid back poise is currently shaping the zeitgeist.

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