Iggy Pop reciting Walt Whitman’s 'I am he who aches with love' (from a recent collaboration with Alva Noto, who scored The Revenant) was the main soundtrack to today’s Calvin Klein show, accompanied by a lot of heavy breathing. You get the picture. If the bearded American poet doesn’t do it for you, the bare-chested punk should. It was a very seductive collection in the way a woman wearing a beautiful black silk suit inevitably is. All those loose seams about to unravel, the low necklines and high slits, the exposed backs and trailing straps, the shiny leather and soft fur… Or maybe it was just the heavy breathing.
The tailoring was impeccable and yet, those contrasting white, blue and red seams and fraying raw edges made it feel as relaxed as a pair of jeans – Calvins, of course. A black satin long-sleeve dress with straps tied over an open back must surely be the world’s chicest hospital gown. We’ve seen a lot of mixed checks and plaids this week but Francisco Costa’s were as chic as they come. A slate grey check coat had a black and white back whereas the back of Mica’s Prince of Wales wool jacket was in black leather as was the inside of her skirt. Costa kept silhouettes unfussy, bar a few stray straps, and focused instead on texture. Those animal print sleeveless dresses and coats – coyote, lynx and um, skunk – seemed as rich as the real thing and so did a faux pony skin coat worn over a clashing black and white cheetah print slip. The scattered polished stones that adorned them, like vintage pins, were charming just like the series of black plissé dresses that closed the show. The pictures don’t them justice – you had to see them move.