If anyone was going to base an entire collection around the slip dress it ought to be Calvin Klein. By featuring them with sneakers, today’s collection instantly wired nineties Kate Moss images to everyone’s brains. And that is always a good thing no matter how used and abused that time’s aesthetic has been lately. Extra credit to Francisco Costa then for how here-and-now this collection felt. Oh, and there were clashing prints at Calvin Klein. Prints! Clashing!
Double-strapped, at times with thin gold chains, and mainly in eggshell and porcelain white, other than a butter-soft taupe leather version, the dresses were cut on the bias and generously so. Long coats over silk camis and loose belted trousers, hems frayed, wrap ties traipsing on the floor, were the alternative. Costa got more creative with the leather apron-style dresses that followed, which came layered over sheer slips and tied at the back. Backless and with long leather straps they hinted both at utility and, well, bondage. That became more apparent once the straps were later replaced with gold chains that wrapped around the body like harnesses. A long black silk tank dress revealed a peony print on the inside and then the prints arrived in full – a welcome surprise. Blossoms on golden taupe and two-toned in navy and silver, they gave a leather and silk trench coat the ease and intimacy of a kimono. Two all-black silk trouser suits had a barely-finished feel with their split sleeves, chalk markings on the seams and fraying hems. That feel continued with some leather yarn knit dresses woven so loosely that they looked to be coming undone. But it was ultimately all about the slip dress and the finale ones came drenched in sequins and adorned with chains. With their frayed silk slip-on sneakers and ankle chains they suggested the morning after a very good night. That’s what the show was called, the morning after, and what a night the Calvin woman had for S/S 16.