Thom Browne, Schiaparelli, Iris van Herpen
On day one of the Paris haute couture collections, editor Hetty Mahlich begins by breaking down the couture debut of American designer Thom Browne. Asking his guests to don their best grey (the brand's signature colour), the theatrical show reimagined tried and true house codes into a fantastical wonder. Then she breaks down all the artistic references Daniel Roseberry was inspired by in his art-infused spectacle. From Yves Klein to Lucian Freud the latest Schiaparelli haute couture collection was a surrealist adaptation of the everyday wardrobe according to our editor. Finally, she ends her round-up by looking at the various state-of-the-art techniques utilised by Iris van Herpen.
Jean Paul Gaultier, Viktor&Rolf, Valentino
In their second round-up review of the A/W 23 haute couture season, our editorial duo discuss how the past is informing the future. Starting with Jean Paul Gaultier, Mahlich discusses the brand’s revolving door of designers, with Rabanne’s creative director Julien Dossena having free rein to reimagine Gaultier’s extensive archive. The result? A futurist spectacle referencing the brand’s key codes, including pinstripe suiting and the iconic cone bra. Then Graham looks at the archival references in Viktor&Rolf’s celebratory 30th anniversary. Finally Mahlich dishes on her trip to Chantilly for the Valentino show. While the usual fantasy was ever present, crisp white shirts and embroidered denim signalled a modern take on haute couture.