As first on the London Fashion Week schedule, it must be tempting to go all out, but Jackie Lee's Spring/Summer 2015 opener this morning was a study in taste and restraint.
A minimal, tailored silhouette found fluidity in box and knife pleat skirts worn with sleek, sleeveless shirts and boxy jackets. The initial palette of navy and cream, with zesty lime and orange geometries as accents, developed into a softer, meshed micro-gingham that made up dropped waist tennis-ish dresses.
The cut was key: not only did pieces feel structured and solid, there was a delicacy to them, through materials used and clever pattern, be that darting or inset panelling and cutaway shoulder details.
Lee is building a name for herself as a deft re-imaginer of modern separates, and the subtle sportiness here added new direction to her feminine, minimalist signature. Her fashion week might be over rather quickly now but this collection proves she has her eye on the long game.