London S/S 24 Womenswear: Daily Round-Up

Stefan Cooke, Chopova Lowena, Mowalola

On day one of London Fashion Week our editorial duo muse on how the city's emerging talents have long shaped it's identity. Looking at some of the brands making the most impact, they begin by dissecting Stefan Cooke's wholly modern approach to menswear that's subverting masculine expectations. Mahlich then notes Chopova Lowena's unabashed celebration of community and craft has made them an industry darling, while Graham questions the intent in Mowalola's provocative presentation held an hour outside the city.

KNWLS, Ashley Williams, Matty Bovan, Paolo Carzana

In their second re-cap of the London Fashion Week shows, our editorial team are joined by special guest Rian Phin all the way from NYC. Her first time at LFW the TikTok star and rising fashion critic weighs in on quintessentially London. Mahlich and Graham note that KNWLS' sexy, strappy, and utilitarian take on Y2K looks more restrained this time around, with Phin agreeing the decision shows real intention to grow the brand. Likewise, the team see the trend-focused quirk of Ashley Williams' return to Fashion Week as a move towards translating her vision into a viable business. On the opposite end of the spectrum are Matty Bovan and Paolo Carzana, who Graham notes are prime examples of London's history of fostering uncompromising creatives.

Burberry, Supriya Lele, Aaron Esh

What direction is British fashion headed? It’s a question that Graham looks to answer in his round-up of the last day of London Fashion Week. He begins by breaking down the sophomore collection of Daniel Lee at Burberry, that he describes as conservative in comparison to other propositions throughout the week. This leads him to discuss the sultry style of both Supriya Lele and Aaron Esh, who are expertly carving out their own niche in fashion with collections that feel modern in their simplicity and approach to sex appeal.