New York S/S 24 Womenswear: Daily Round-Up

Coach, Helmut Lang

On day one of New York Fashion Week, our editor breaks down how to define American fashion and identity today. Are brands are embracing their individuality and digging their heels into American soil, rather than aspiring towards luxury in Europe?

This was evident in Stuart Vevers' 10th-anniversary collection for Coach, which was defined by its Americanisms and pop culture references. Exploring the idea of resurgence, Mahlich moves on to Peter Do's debut at Helmut Lang, which was rife with references from the cult-favourite label. Breathing new life into the revered brand, she dubs the show a celebration of New York City and the American dream, albeit a shaky one.

Proenza Schouler, Eckhaus Latta

Now American fashion and identity are defined, day two of New York fashion week saw Mahlich dive straight into the nitty gritty. A sense of recalibration seems to be a key theme so far. The latest to hark on this trend are the NY design duo Mika Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta, and Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez.

Both brands presented concise, consumer-ready visions. Proenza Schouler's location at Phillip's auction house and the unveiling of a new logo reflected an Uptown collection lighter in mood and tone. At Eckhaus Latta, the typically artsy brand toned things down, favouring a subtle take on Y2K as they proposed silver patina denim and clogs.

Failure to Launch at NYFW? The S/S 24 Shows So Far

Halfway through the fashion festivities editor Hetty Mahlich is joined by fashion critic M-C Hill to collect their thoughts on the shows so far. As her first NYFW, Mahlich notes the crowd is much different to London and Paris using Colin LoCascio and Area’s A-list heavy crowd as examples. Hill agrees that a certain level of division exists among the city’s fashion week attendees between uptown and downtown eclecticism. Our duo ended off with a question: Does fashion always need to surprise us?

LaQuan Smith, Area

It may have been a Monday for our live reviewers Mahlich and Hill but as far as they were concerned, thanks to the vibrant energy that both LaQuan Smith and Area brought to NYFW, it felt like a Friday night. Both shows presented classic New York glamour and opulence, with people like Mary J Blige and Real Housewives of Atlanta's Marlo Hampton present on the front row at LaQuan Smith.

This palpable buzz felt in the crowd and seen on the clothes carried through to the Area show where creative director Piotrek Panszczyk proved he was more than worthy with a knowledge of fashion history seen in the clothes. References harkened back to Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking suit, the house of Ungaro and a contemporary take on 80s power dressing - all stamped with Area's distinct rigour.

Willy Chavarria, Luar, Puppets & Puppets

Did New York Fashion Week save its best for last? That’s the conclusion editor Hetty Mahlich came. Noting her excitement to see Willy Chavarria and Luar, to say she wasn’t left disappointed would be an understatement. Mahlich praises both designers on their ability to reimagine American luxury through their distinct points of view as a Mexican American, and Dominican American respectively.

She also commends Puppets & Puppets’ restraint this season. Known for their artistic approach to fashion with sculptural silhouettes and object-based designs, this year they reeled things in to create a collection of desirable (and wearable) garments.