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SHOWtime: London and Milan S/S 23

published on 23 June 2022

What happened when SHOWstudio invited a selection of panellists to an abrasively-honest debate-style panel?

In a discussion moderated by SHOWstudio's fashion critic M-C Hill, panellists Rian Phin, Alexandra Hildreth, Ryan Yip and Sarah Nicole François touch on a selection of wide-ranging arguments rooted in London and Milan's S/S 23 menswear shows. Want to hear honest and unfiltered opinion? Scan your eye - and ears - across the varying debates below.

What happened when SHOWstudio invited a selection of panellists to an abrasively-honest debate-style panel?

'Creating exciting menswear is not easy in a sustainable context for a large fashion house.' - Rian Phin

Believing the secret to successful menswear lies in the less than desirable horror of mass consumption, Phin uses recent examples of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' Prada and Grace Wales Bonner's S/S 23 collections to fight her point, tooth and nail.

'Why can't fashion grasp gender neutral clothing?' - Alexandra Hildreth

Believing all clothing is gender neutral while also under the impression that fashion's obsession with the 'masculine' for both female and male silhouettes pervades all, Hildreth argues that younger designers who use their identities and backgrounds as a mode of expression are here to create a new form of traditionalism. But what do the other panellists think?

'Martine Rose's show is the highlight of London Fashion Week and no one came close.' - Ryan Yip

Holding the opinion that 'no other show came close to Martine Rose's excellence at London Fashion Week Men's S/S 23', Yip dives straight into gushing over the designer's display of craft and talent, taking form through the wearability relatability and creativity of her most recent S/S 23 collection.

'Our Culture is Trapped in the Past and Nostalgia is killing creativity.' - Sarah Nicole François

Is fashion stuck in the past? François is sure of it. Whether it be through the regurgitation of popular TikTok trends or society's current obsession with Y2K, François makes it known she's not-so-patiently waiting for something new to take the fashion world by storm. The other panellists, however? They may not be so sure.

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