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SHOWtime: New York S/S 23 Womenswear

published on 22 September 2022

What happened when SHOWstudio invited a selection of panellists to an abrasively-honest debate-style panel?

In a discussion moderated by SHOWstudio's fashion critic M-C Hill, panellists Bailey Anderes, Rian Phin, Louis Pisano and Alexandra Hildreth touch on a selection of wide-ranging arguments rooted in the latest New York S/S 23 womenswear shows. From discussing the clear and unapologetic exploitation on display at Barragán to weighing in their thoughts on the relevance of creative directors today compared to heavyweight designers pre social media, watch the varying debates below.

What happened when SHOWstudio invited a selection of panellists to an abrasively-honest debate-style panel?

'Barragán’s all-white casting shows how racially-exclusive casting can serve a purpose for cohesive storytelling.' - Rian Phin

All-white castings have long been a troubling topic in fashion. Well, Rian Phin argues that racially-exclusive casting is beneficial to subversive storytelling. Phin cites Victor Barragán’s latest collection which was inspired by America's fringe caucasian communities as an example. Louis Pisano is quick to compare this to the racism enacted by the white-gay community with Bailey Anderes linking this mentality to the notoriously white casting at Jacquemus.

'Has social media had an impact on the celebrity status of modern-day designers?' - Bailey Anderes

Are designers as good as they used to be? Who are the Alexander McQueen's and John Galliano's of today? FIT fashion student Bailey Anderes thinks there are none - blaming it on a lack of skillset within design with the likes of social media making it easier to 'cut corners'. However, Hildreth thinks social media does nothing but benefit the designers of today, using Chopova Lowena as an example when it comes to using platforms like Instagram to your advantage. Pisano is also hesitant to side with Anderes, blaming the changing role of a creative director on other reasons, admitting fashion has its issues, but Instagram isn't one of them.

'Do celebrity gimmicks and viral internet moments overshadow the actual fashion at NYFW?' - Louis Pisano

'Do celebrity gimmicks and viral internet moments overshadow the actual fashion at NYFW?' - Louis PisanoLouis Pisano gripes on the oversaturation of celebrities at New York Fashion Week and discusses his own experiences as a pseudo-influencer asked to attend shows to make deliverable content for brands. Bailey Anderes compares it to his peers at FIT who utilise maximalist sartorial choices as a way to get noticed both on and offline. Alexandra Hildreth chimes in and compares this wannabe influencer mentality to Julia Fox whose romantic tryst with Kanye West followed by a captivating makeover has made her one of social media's most interesting (and entertaining) figures. Still, Rian Phin agrees with the original point, expressing her frustration with how the trade show has been taken over by celebrity spectacle.

'Was Marc Jacobs the saving grace of his collaboration with Fendi artistic director Kim Jones?' - Alexandra Hildreth

To cut a long story short, Hildreth's thoughts on Kim Jones are clear as day. 'I hate to say it, but his time as a designer is up, you know what to expect at this point and it's mediocre at best'. Is the young fashion critic right? Or is her unwavering love for Marc Jacobs making her point of view ever so slightly biased? There's only one way to find out...

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