Day 4: Back to the Couture

Behind the seams. Christian Dior haute couture autumn/winter 2009, by John Galliano. A work in progress.

If haute couture had a patron saint, it would be Lady Amanda Harlech. One of the most inspiring people I have ever met. AF

“Eisa,” the original label attached to couture pieces by Cristobal Balenciaga. His Spanish-based atelier retained the name and the label when he moved to Paris. This is from a three-piece suit (skirt, jacket and caplet) owned by Lady Amanda Harlech.

A 1938 Schiaparelli jacket, embroidered by Maison Lesage with hammered metal strips, an embroidery style which became a signature of the house of Schiap. The colour has rubbed away, exposing the silver metal beneath. The design is raised with wool padding beneath. Based on an eighteenth century technique.

Paris-Bombay, Chanel’s 2011 Métiers d’Art collection. All embroidery by hand using the Luneville hook and sewing each bead individually, by Maison Lesage Buttons are also entirely made by hand melting metals and using a flamework technique to create glass pieces, by Desrues - the first of the “Satellites” bought by Chanel in 1984.

Tailleur-in-progress, for John Galliano’s spring/summer 2009 haute couture collection for Christian Dior

Petite mains working on John Galliano’s spring/summer 2001 “Wonder Woman” haute couture collection for Christian Dior

Seamstresses working on Valentino couture, spring/summer 2013

Gaulter Paris Python skin bodysuit and skirt with primitive-look nail and copper embroidery, haute couture autumn/winter 2004 132 hours to craft.

More Chanel winter 2014 embroidery

One of the lace labels sewn into Gaultier’s haute couture pieces

Chanel spring/summer 2012 haute couture

The toile of a spring/summer 2012 Chanel jacket.

Gaultier Paris haute couture gown, autumn/winter 1997. 1,060 hours to embroider, by hand.

Programmes at the autumn/winter 2014 Gaultier Paris couture show

Feather embroideries by Lemarié, April 2014

Feather embroideries by Lemarié, April 2014

Givenchy haute couture, 1963. Coral cotton lace entirely embroidered with coral and coral-coloured glass beads, by Maison Lesage

Embroidered “Crocodile” jacket by François Lesage for Yves Saint Laurent haute couture, 1986

Constructing couture at Chanel, autumn/winter 2011.

The boned interior of a Nina Ricci haute couture bustier, circa 1958. Gold lace lined in mushroom silk georgette.

A Balenciaga sketch from 1953, with original fabric swatch attached

Yves Saint Laurent at work on his debut own-label haute couture collection, 1962